It is very important to know that not all essential oils have an easily pourable consistency. Some essential oils and absolute oils have a resinous, thick or almost solid consistency. For example, Myrrh oil and Peruvian balsam are similar to thick honey, violet, vanilla, rose solidify at room temperature

Guaiac tree essential oil has a very thick consistency. Sometimes it hardens and becomes crystalline in appearance and can only be “applied”, like candied honey. Agree that mixing almost solid parts is very inconvenient. Therefore, some preparation should be done before using these oils.

The process of creating perfume consists of several stages:
1.Creating the aroma of each note
2. Mixing notes in strict sequence.
3.Adding a composition to the base.
4. Maturation of the composition.
First stage. Creating the scent of every note.
Consistency essential oils.
It is very important to know that not all essential oils have an easily pourable consistency. Some essential oils and absolute oils have a resinous, thick or almost solid consistency. For example, Myrrh oil and Peruvian balsam are similar to thick honey, violet, vanilla, and rose solidify at room temperature. Guaiac tree essential oil has a very thick consistency. Sometimes it hardens and becomes crystalline in appearance and can only be “applied”, like candied honey.
Agree that mixing almost solid parts is very inconvenient. Therefore, some preparation should be done before using these oils.
Heating.
You will need water bath, a separate clean container, for example: a test tube or bottle with a lid. You will place the required amount of oil for the job in the container. Keep in mind that heating should not be long, as this may affect the quality of the oil. The procedure should not take about 10 minutes. Some oils will disperse in 1-2 minutes, while others will take longer. Heating the container with essential oil should be gradual. It is not recommended to immediately place the container in boiling water - it may crack.
For example, Rose Gallicum can be heated in a water bath just above room temperature. To grow guaiac wood you will need very hot water and more time.
Dilution.
Solidified essential oil can be diluted with alcohol in a ratio of 1 to 3 or with another, more liquid essential oil. Add a few drops of oil to the bottle and shake thoroughly until it is completely dissolved. These could be essential oils that you plan to use in the composition to create a base note. Dilution with essential oil is convenient when working on oil perfumes.
Absolutes have a very concentrated aroma and for this reason they should be diluted with alcohol or other liquid essential oil before use. The proportion is 1 to 3 or more, where 1 part is absolute, and 3 parts are alcohol. If you are creating alcohol perfumes. If you are preparing a fragrance for oil perfumes, then dilute it in oil.
Keep in mind that some absolutes do not dissolve in oil. This is beeswax and cocoa absolute.
CO2 extracts are very thick and oily liquids that look more like an ointment than an oil. The measures mentioned above can be applied to them.

Selection of oils for composition.
By choosing scents, you can lose your ability to smell. Many people believe that the aroma of coffee will restore your sense of smell and you can safely continue your search. I think this is another myth. I use basil oil.
It is better to select aromas in a well-ventilated area and take a short break. If you feel dizzy or nauseous, this means that you need to take a walk or drink a cup of tea, relax and get some air on the balcony or around the house. Essential oils have the ability to influence a person’s condition both positively and negatively, especially if the aroma is “not yours.”
We already know that any classical composition is compiled according to a principle based on the degree of volatility of essential oils. Let's repeat ourselves a little... - these are the three phases of the aroma:
The first phase is the head (5 -20 minutes). The "head" is very important as it is the first impression of the composition. Based on these few touches, we decide whether we like the scent or not.
The second phase is the heart (20 minutes - 1 hour). This is the middle of the aroma. It connects the top and bottom notes. The heart evaporates slowly, exuding all shades and colors.
The third phase is the base (up to 8 hours). The longest phase in duration. It remains in our perception as a reminder of the aroma. This note is the base note in perfumes, and is often used as a fixative (fixer) of a fragrance.
Therefore, in order to make the right composition, you must have several oils with varying degrees of volatility in your arsenal.
For example,
top – bergamot, lemon, mint, orange, rosewood
medium – ylan-ylang, geranium, palmarosa, carrot, rosemary, thyme, violet, jasmine
low – patchouli, vetiver, cedar, sandalwood, clove (bud), cinnamon (bark), iris (root), ginger
All essential oils are selected to suit your taste and preferences.

To fix the aroma, you can use Diethyl phthalate - an artificially produced aroma fixative. It is often used in industrial perfumery. This substance is not suitable for therapeutic perfumes; it is better to use aromafix or another “green” fixative.
To work you will need blotters. It is advisable that they be made of thick multi-layer paper, white, about 10 cm long, 1 cm wide. You will apply each individual essential oil drop by drop. It will be better if you write the inscription first and then add the oil. For this procedure, you can use a glass rod or a syringe (you can get a micro-drop through a syringe), then this procedure will not be very wasteful. During selection, try not to let the blotters touch each other, otherwise all the flavors will mix and you will not get a clean experiment.
Now apply all the essential oils from which you intend to make a composition onto the blotters. Experience each scent individually. Those aromas that you have unconsciously rejected - put them aside - they are not yours.
Prepare several options for top, middle and bottom aromas, divide them by degree of volatility. This will make your work more convenient.
Having determined which scent will serve as the basis for the top, middle and bottom notes, you can begin to work with each note separately, adding complementary scents to them.
Let's look at the example of creating a middle note.
You decide it must be ylang-ylang. We take a blotter with this oil in our hand and bring it to our nose. If you are not satisfied with this scent pure form, for example, if he seems too sugary to you, then you can dilute it with compliments. Try not to add more than three complementary scents to the main scent. Their maximum quantity is about 30% (3:7). Even if you didn't achieve desired result, then don't despair. At all stages of perfume creation, you can adjust the smell by adding certain essential oils to the composition.
Create a composition taking into account all the information given above in part 3.
So, when you have prepared all three notes, let's move on to the next step.

Second stage. Mixing notes in strict sequence.
All notes are mixed in strict sequence.
1st - Heart (medium)
2nd - Base (lower)
3rd - Head (upper)

You have all three notes available separately. Place a drop of the heart note mixture on one blotter and the base note on the other – bring it to your nose. Listen to this combination. If it does not suit you, then you can “play” with the concentration of essential oils. It should take at least 2 hours to understand how these notes sound. You can use layered paper or a handkerchief and apply the scent to your skin. Within 2-3 hours the aroma will seem to disintegrate into invisible parts. It will appear in all its shades. Do you like it? Great. This is the moment of truth, your choice, which depends on your perception. You have found the combination you need. Record this composition and move on to the next step.
Once you have decided on the heart note and base note, we begin mixing the top note, the highest note in the composition. To do this, combine all three notes into one whole and follow the same steps. Top notes are tested faster, about 30 minutes. Feel the beauty of your composition; if necessary, increase the concentration of volatile oils.
Attention! Many people make the mistake of mixing all three notes together at this stage. No! This should not be done. Each note is dissolved separately and fixed by the base, and only then mixed with each other. Sometimes you can create only one note for several days.
Don't forget to write down all your actions at each stage. It may happen that some data will fall out of your memory and next time you will have to repeat everything again. But!...if you have a unique formula for your perfume, then at any time you can resort to it and proceed directly to the stage of mixing and applying to the base.
I would like to note that your personal experience. If you use various natural aromas in your life a lot and for a long time, then you, like an experienced chef, can create a masterpiece without trying anything. And vice versa, you can sniff for a long time and do...xxx...
Third stage. Adding a composition to the base.
Perfume can be oil, alcohol, solid or free-flowing.
Here I want to make a small insert, perhaps it will seem stupid to someone, but I myself saw this recipe on the forum from one novice lady.
The recipe is quite long, I will only attach an extract. “...30 drops of 14% sandalwood in oil grape seed... topped it up with alcohol... it didn’t dissolve...”
Well, of course it didn’t dissolve! Because grape seed oil is fatty. It cannot be dissolved in alcohol, even 96%. If you decide to create an alcohol-based perfume, then the components should not be oil-based and vice versa. These are different perfumes. Otherwise - transfer of products and funds. (O.Sh.)
Once you have decided on the formula and your composition is ready, it can receive a carrier. The carrier of perfume can be alcohol, oil, wax and powder. It all depends on what and how quickly you want to get the result.
Be prepared for the fact that the same essential oils in oil or alcohol will smell completely different.
The rule for mixing with the base, as mentioned above, for all types of media is as follows: First, the heart note is added to the base, then the base note, and finally the top note (head).
1. Oil perfume plays beautifully on the skin. They are durable, but their aroma is more restrained than that of alcohol perfumes. They do not require long aging and can be ready in just a week.
Therapeutic perfumes are usually oil-based. The oil is absorbed into the skin, taking with it the aroma of essential oils. Penetrating into the bloodstream, essential oils work on your condition, improve the processes of all body systems, correct and bring life and energy. Oil perfumes are intended to be applied to the skin only. In this case, they will gratefully reveal their aroma.
Oil perfumes are made on the basis of fatty plant refined deodorized (odorless) oil or oily macerate (infusion)>>> These are aromatic healing tinctures on various parts of the plant. They can serve not only as a base, but also as an aromatic component in a composition.
Sometimes perfumes are created on the basis of mineral oil, but in this case, the oil is not absorbed by the skin, but leaves a greasy film, which, you see, does not lead to the intended task. Therefore, if you want to do something worthwhile, then use cosmetic natural vegetable oils. For example, almonds, apricots, peach and others. Each note of the composition is added to the oil separately. And only then reunite in one bottle.
The disadvantage of oil perfumes is that they leave greasy marks on clothes and make hair greasy, if, of course, they are applied to hair and clothes.
Concentration: For oil perfumes, the concentration of esters should be approximately 10%. For example, if you make 10 ml of perfume, then the mixture of essential oils is 1 ml, and the fatty oil is 9 ml. But this shouldn't limit you. If you want to increase the intensity of your perfume, you can increase it. Fatty oil is just a carrier, a solvent, a fixative of flavor. Many fragrance lovers combine essential oil directly into an aroma pendant in its pure form, without a plant base, ... although it can hardly be called a perfume, rather an aromatic mix.
Also, it should be recalled that if your individual perfume is a success, then you stop feeling it on yourself after just a few minutes. Laws of perfume>>>
2. Solid perfumes, due to their soft, creamy consistency, are intended only for application to the skin. Like oil perfumes, they mature for about a week and leave greasy spots on clothes.
For the base of solid perfumes, beeswax and vegetable oil are usually used. In a 1:2 ratio, where vegetable oil occupies 2 parts.
Technology: Do solid perfume need to be applied immediately, as the base hardens quickly. Prepare in advance a bottle, a jar, a used powder compact, a lipstick case... (and God knows what else comes to mind)... This is the container that you will fill with aromatic paste.
Beeswax should be melted in a water bath or in the microwave (do not boil!). Let it cool and while the wax is still warm, but no longer hardened, mix with vegetable oil. You can use a small whisk. Then add a composition of essential oils to the base in strict order (heart, base, head). Quickly pour the finished perfume into a storage container. Now put them in a dark, warm place and after a week you can use them.
3. Alcohol perfumes are very intense and rich, but unfortunately they quickly disappear. They are distinguished by a long ripening period - from two weeks to three months. Alcohol-based perfumes can be applied to clothing, provided they are made with a light tincture. Dark perfume can linger on clothes age spots. Perfume is usually a very concentrated aroma.
You can make them with pure alcohol, or you can use tinctures with alcohol - tinctures. Tinctures already have their own aromas and can be a full-fledged participant in the aromatic composition. They are able to replenish rare odors, as well as decorate the mixture with color. The color of the tincture depends on the plant on which it was infused. Making a Tincture>>>
Eau de toilette and eau de parfum are made with the addition of water.
When diluted with water, the alcohol may become cloudy. It is known that water is an excellent solvent. Therefore, it may contain many different impurities. Try to use distilled water. As a last resort, the water can be boiled or melted. It is important that it is soft. And be sure to pour alcohol into water, and not vice versa. (concentration 40-45%). If the mixture remains cloudy, try filtering.
The alcohol must be at least 96%, otherwise the essential oil will not dissolve. As a last resort, 70%, but in this case it is not necessary to add water.
If you are creating:
1. Perfumes, you should know that the concentration of essential oils in perfumes is from 15 to 40%. (20% of the total). This is for 10 ml of alcohol - 1-2 ml of a mixture of essential oils.
2.Eau de parfum or toilet perfume- concentration of essential oils 10-20%. (10% of the total). For 9 ml of 80% alcohol - 1 ml of essential oils
3. Cologne - concentration of essential oils 3-8% (about 5% of the total), where per 50 ml of 70% alcohol - 15-30 drops of essential oils.
For convenience, I can quote this from the table of drops in 1 ml of essential oil (peppermint) contains about 35 drops.
Keep in mind that all oils are different in consistency and when using a dropper, they form an individual number of drops.
Technology: Dissolve each individual note in alcohol in strict sequence. (heart, base, head). Once the essential oils have dissolved, do not mix all three notes together. Let them sit for about 30 minutes. Let the essential oils get used to the base, dissolve in it, mix, become friends and become related. Now each individual note will be fixed by the carrier and will play its role in right time. After a while, mix them together, shake and then add distilled water, in accordance with what you want to get: perfume, eau de toilette or eau de parfum.
To begin with, you can prepare a sample. For 20 drops of alcohol you will need 10 drops of a mixture of essential oils. Having prepared a trial version, it will become clear to you whether your composition is successful or not.
After you have added the essential oil mixture to the base, close the containers and place in a dark place until fully ripened. During this period, do not forget to shake the mixture every 2-3 days.
Perfumes made on the basis of tinctures give off less alcohol. The more varied and rich the tincture, the fewer traces of alcohol.
Attention! To prevent your composition from “giving off” the aroma of alcohol, glycerin will help you.
Before adding essential oil to alcohol, you need to add a portion of glycerin and shake everything thoroughly.
Proportions:
96% alcohol or antiseptic solution- 50% or 50 ml
distilled water - 25% or 25 ml
glycerin - 5% - or 5 ml
perfume composition - 5% - 5 ml

4. Powdery perfumes are free-flowing. The term “powdery” refers to muted, refined, delicate aromas. They are made on the basis of talc, rice powder or odorless powder. The most expensive fragrances are used as fillers: jasmine, rose, violet, iris, neroli, tuberose... Sometimes synthetic fillers are used such as lilac, lily of the valley, green tea, peony, etc. Powdery perfumes are used for body care, for aromatic hair combing, for personal hygiene, for caring for diaper rash in a child (with Roman chamomile or lavender). They are also used for scenting wardrobes. The fragrant powder mixture is especially in great demand among overweight women(...they know what to do with it!)
Technology: Place the perfume mixture (20 drops - 300 ml) into a glass container with a wide opening and a hermetically sealed lid. Distribute the liquid evenly over the walls of the container and then add the aroma carrier. Close tightly and shake several times. The carrier should be 2-3 times smaller than the container so that the powder mixes well. Shake as it ripens. After 1-2 weeks you have a finished powdery perfume. Prepare a special bag. On the outside it is made of silk or satin, and inside there is a paper layer made of porous but thick paper or non-woven paper... the main thing is that the contents do not spill, but exude a aroma.
5. Sachet with the addition of essential oil. Sashas are most often beautiful handmade products. The creativity and soul of the housewife is invested in them. The sachet releases its aroma very slowly and unobtrusively. It is placed in closets with clothes and linens for aroma and against moths. The sachet, in the form of a bag, can be attached to a hanger with clothes, and the pad can be placed on a shelf among underwear or bed linen. It can be used for the bedroom at the head of the bed, to improve sleep, in the children's room, it can be hung in the kitchen for aroma. According to ancient belief, a sachet with aromatic herbs is a talisman. It protects the house from envy and evil spirits, and protects peace within the family. In this case, Sasha can be seen hanging at the entrance to the house or, for example, on the headboard of the marital bed. In many ethnic cultures, it is customary to wear small bags of herbs around the neck as a talisman or amulet, in which case the sachet acts as an individual perfume.
Technology:
1. You need to sew a small fabric bag or pillow with a loop or ribbons for easy hanging. Fabric, preferably, use natural fiber (silk, linen, cotton). This will be a beautiful shell for the main, filled Sasha. Here you can give full rein to your imagination: decorate it with beads, beads and sequins, embroidery or lace...
2. Then sew the second bag. The second, inner pouch is made of non-woven fabric or thick fabric, for example, from teak. Its size should be made smaller by 3 mm so that it can easily be inserted into the main decorative bag. It will act as a filter and prevent the herbal mixture from penetrating outside.
3. Prepare a collection of herbs or flower petals and spices in advance. Dry everything in a warm room. Next, fill a non-woven bag with dried aromatic herbs and plant leaves.
4. Make a fragrant composition and add it to Sasha.
5. Insert the filling bag into the decorative one and carefully tie or sew up the hole.
6. Next, as it evaporates, you can add essential oils.
Note. In some cases, you can place cereals, such as millet, in the Sasha, and then drop a few drops of essential oil onto the cereal. Any cereal contains lipids (fatty oils) and retains odor well, and dry herbs and flowers make the aroma of essential oil more rich and enriched.
Suitable for filling:
Herbs and leaves: mint, linden, currant, raspberry, basil, tobacco, etc.
Flower petals: rose, jasmine, chamomile, rosehip, peony, lavender, rosemary, violet, clover, etc.
Zest: orange, tangerine, lemon, grapefruit, etc.
Spices: pepper, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, fennel, anise...
Cereals: millet, oats, wheat, buckwheat, etc.
Fourth stage. Maturation of the composition.
After preparing the mixture, it should be placed in a bottle with a tight dark glass lid and placed in a dark, warm place. The spirits must mature. Typically it takes:
- 4-5 weeks, and sometimes up to 3 months - for alcohol perfumes.
- 1-3 weeks - for oily, solid and bulk products.
- The sachet can be used immediately.
As it ripens, you can test the composition by placing a drop of the mixture on the blotter, evaluate the aroma and make changes if necessary.
During the first 2 weeks it may unpleasantly surprise you with shades of acetone. Don’t let this bother you - this is a reaction where the components interact, as if getting used to each other.
If, during the maturation of your composition, you have determined the moment of the aroma that is most pleasant to you, then at this stage you can additionally add an aroma fixative or a few drops of essential oil that has fixing properties. For example, Clary Sage, Oakmoss... In this case, you need to extend the maturation time of your perfume.
You must understand that the desired flavor is achieved through trial and error. Don't despair if it doesn't work out right away.
At the end of the fourth week, your (alcohol) perfume will open like a flower, and you will be able to deservedly enjoy the results of your creativity.
After ripening, the perfume (alcohol) must be filtered through a cotton pad or multi-layer gauze, as sediment from the heavy fractions will probably fall out. Then pour into a dark bottle with an airtight lid and place in a cool place. But you don’t have to filter. A slight sediment is allowed for natural perfumes.
If necessary, perfume can be poured into a convenient bottle with a spray bottle, applicator or roller (for oily perfumes). You can store perfume for about a year. Therefore, it is not recommended to make too large volumes.
Individual perfumes are fertile ground for your creativity. You can compose any compositions with different shades aromas for every, even the most sophisticated taste!

Often in descriptions of fragrances there is such a thing as a perfume composition. Many people think that it is simply a synonym for the word perfume, but this is not entirely true. Today we want to clarify this issue and understand what a perfume composition actually is.

What is a perfume composition

A perfume composition is a concentrated multicomponent mixture of fragrant substances with a specific aroma inherent in a specific perfume product. It is she who is the carrier of the smell, that is, the main element in the composition of any perfume. And it is this that determines the character and durability of your favorite perfume. However, she is not a spirit.

To obtain perfumes, eau de toilettes and colognes, the perfume composition is diluted in an alcohol or oil solution in a certain ratio.

So, perfume is a 25-30% solution of a perfume composition, eau de toilette– 15% solution, and cologne – 6-10%.

Thus, we can simultaneously answer another frequent question from our readers - what percentage of aromatic oils do perfume compositions contain? Based on the previous logic, you yourself already see the answer. A perfume composition is a substance consisting of 100% pure aromatic substances.

What is included in a perfume composition?

Depending on the desire of the perfumer, the composition of the perfume composition may include:

Plant extracts - usually essential oils and absolutes
extracts of animal origin - amber, musk, civet, etc.
as well as synthetic fragrances, which are obtained from petroleum products in chemical laboratories.

Of course, no synthetic fragrances are used. Plant extracts, on the contrary, are the main working material of perfumers, from which they create their masterpieces.

Creation of perfume compositions

As we have already found out, various natural extracts are used to create perfume compositions. But how do individual aromatic substances, with their own unique aroma, produce a unique, multifaceted aroma that brings us into a state of bliss?

From a technical point of view, everything is simple. It is necessary to classify the available oils according to their level of volatility into three groups: rapidly volatile, moderately volatile and slowly volatile. Next, within each group, compose the top, middle and bottom chords of the future composition, respectively, combine them and, voila, the aroma is ready.

However, if you dig a little deeper, everything turns out to be much more complicated.

The final result largely depends on the talent and skill level of the person who is composing the perfume composition. It’s like in music: there are only 7 notes, but some people create masterpieces from them, while others create mediocre works.

Want to test your perfume talents? Here is a small instruction on how to do it at home. And we will continue and talk about existing types of perfume compositions.

Main types of perfume compositions

Despite the fact that perfume compositions are complex mixtures of fragrant substances, they usually have a leading accent that belongs to one or another family of fragrances.

Different perfume schools classify odors differently; perfumers do not have a uniform approach to this matter. Therefore, we will now consider the classification of fragrances that we ourselves adhere to in our atelier.

So, there are 10 main families of fragrances: citrus, spicy, fruity, floral, herbal, woody, fougere, chypre, oriental, leather, as well as resins and balms.

Citrus aromas

As you might guess, this family includes aromas of lemon, orange, lime, bergamot, grapefruit and other citrus fruits. Extracts are obtained by cold pressing from the peel of the corresponding fruit. These are invigorating, refreshing aromas that are great for creating bright, energetic perfumes.

Spicy flavors

The family of spicy aromas are made up of extracts extracted from the same plants from which we commonly obtain spices. Cinnamon, pepper, nutmeg, cloves, vanilla are the most popular representatives of this group. Expressive, rich, seductive... Just like spices in cooking, spicy aromas give a perfume character and special warmth.

Oriental (oriental) fragrances

Bright, temperamental, rich and incredibly seductive. This is how the perfume compositions of this group are usually described. The basis of these aromas are the essential oils of jasmine, iris, vanilla, sandalwood, musk and amber, traditional for oriental perfumery. Ambergris, by the way, is a powerful aphrodisiac, which is why oriental scents are so seductive.

Fruit aromas

Ripe, sun-drenched fruits have a stunning aroma. It would be strange not to use them in perfumery. Apple, mango, pear, peach, pineapple, papaya and other fruit aromas fill perfumes with warmth and tenderness, and therefore are considered more feminine. They are also found in men's perfumes, but in much lower concentrations.

Floral scents

This family of fragrances is the most extensive. These include rose, tuberose, jasmine, violet, orange blossom, champaca and dozens of other lesser-known but no less pleasant floral scents. However, a perfume composition is rarely dominated by the scent of a single flower; usually it contains a whole range of flowers, which, however, only makes it more interesting and richer.

Herbaceous (green) aromas

This type of perfume composition is based on fresh, energetic aromas of herbs. Mint, sage, chamomile, marjoram, lemon grass, rosemary are the most prominent representatives of this group. Since these aromas are quite rich and sharp, they are more often used in men's perfumery. However, do not forget that, therefore, you should not pay special attention to this point.

Chypre fragrances

Another great option for nature lovers. Bergamot, patchouli, oakmoss and cistus are the main components of these compositions. The perfumes produced on their basis combine the incredible - invigorating freshness with exquisite sweetness, and all this is shaded with a slight bitterness. If you fall in love with these scents, then immediately and forever.

Fougere aromas

Fougere or fern scents are somewhat similar to chypre ones, but without unnecessary sweetness. They have a fresh, slightly bitter smell, based on the aromas of bergamot, coumarin and wood moss. By the way, the name of the group has nothing to do with either wine glasses or ferns. She (the group) received this name as an inheritance from the first perfume with this smell, released in 1882. It was called "Royal Fern", a fern translated from the French "fougere".

Woody aromas

Woody aromas include perfume compositions based on honey, spices, oak moss, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood and amber. They also often include various resins and balms. Woody compositions form the basis of many unisex perfumes, as their aroma suits both men and women well.

Leather fragrances

Juniper, birch tar, vetiver and oak – these extracts form the basis of leather fragrances loved by many. Perfumes with the scent of leather have admirers among all people age groups– many people like their warmth, solidity, solidity and, of course, a pleasant “expensive” trail.

You can become the owner of an original fragrance without resorting to the services of a professional perfumer. Making your own perfume from essential oils at home is not at all difficult, the main thing is to use high-quality components and follow the rules for composing perfume compositions.

Let's start doing it - is it difficult?

We reveal the secrets of creating your own perfume from essential oils!

Homemade perfume recipes include essential oils and a base - alcohol or oil. Also prepare:

resealable dark glass bottles;
dishes for mixing components;
pipettes;
scent sampling strips.

Alcohol and oil perfumes differ in their properties and durability. In the first case, the smell disappears faster, but reveals itself fully and richly. But in oil-based perfumes the aroma is muted, but more persistent. And the shelf life of such perfumes is longer than alcohol ones. But oil perfumes can leave marks on clothes!

Choose unscented oil for the base - olive, almond, grape, cocoa, jojoba. If it is alcohol, then buy medical alcohol at the pharmacy. There you will also find essential and base oils. You can also purchase them in online stores: Aromashka, iHerb, Aromarti and others.

The smell of perfume can be intense - the total content of essential oils is 30-40%. And for delicate, soft, discreet aromas - 10-15%.

When making your own essential oil perfume, record each drop you add. This will allow you to save the exact proportions of successful perfume compositions and use them in the future.

About the notes and strength of perfume

The principle of constructing perfumes is based on a little trick: The mixture contains three aromatic notes - top, middle and base. How are they different?

The top note, or “head” of a perfume composition, is the first impression, those aromas that are felt when the perfume evaporates from the surface of the skin within 10-30 minutes after application. We feel them when we smell a bottle of perfume. The initial note contains the most volatile phytoessences - with a high evaporation rate. These include light herbal and fruity aromas, for example:

lemon, tangerine and other citrus fruits,
basilica,
lemon balm,
mint,
rosemary,
verbena.

Strong-smelling perfumes based on essential oils often contain a large percentage of top note aromas. After all, they are the ones who evaporate faster and give the perfume its original brightness.

The middle note, the “heart”, is the basis of the composition - less light phytoessences, disappear within 8-24 hours:

sage,
hyssop,
geraniums,
lavender,
jasmine,
nutmeg,
cypress,
myrtle,
ylang-ylang,
daisies.

The base note includes heavy, long-lasting oils. We wear this scent on our skin the longest - it becomes distinguishable when the components of the “head” and “heart” of the perfume have evaporated. Bottom note oils are obtained from spices, plant resins, roots, fruits, flowers, seeds, fruits and tree bark. Examples of phytoessences:

vanilla,
ginger,
patchouli,
juniper,
myrrh,
sandalwood,
rosewood,
cumin,
incense,
carnations,
neroli,
fennel.

Each note of natural perfumes should contain no more than three essential oils, that is, to create a perfume with your own hands, choose a maximum of 9 phytoessences.

Essential oils cannot be used in their pure form as perfumes, as they can cause skin burns or an allergic reaction. The aromatic component of perfume is always dissolved in a carrier base - fatty oil or alcohol.

Many essential oil manufacturers create packaging in different colors. It's convenient. For example, Vivasan has yellow, pink and green for the top, middle and base notes respectively.

top 30%,
average 50%,
bottom 20%.

Such precision is not necessary, since when creating perfumes, the result depends on personal feelings and the selected components.

Fragrance families will help you choose

Any mixture can be attributed to a specific family of fragrances:

Citrus scents - include oils of bergamot, orange, grapefruit, tangerine, lemongrass (lime), lemon. They were part of the first colognes and eau de toilette.
Floral is a large family of scents; perfumes often use compositions of the aromas of several flowers. Rose, violet, jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli (orange flower), and lilac are popular in perfumery.
Woody - aromas with notes of slight tartness or sweetness. They give the perfume sophistication and warmth. These are essential oils of sandalwood, iris, rosewood, myrtle, and patchouli.
Fern, or fougere, are compositions of lavender, woody scents with hints of bergamot, geranium, suede or moss. Fresh and tart.
Oriental (oriental, amber) - warm, sweet, sensual scents. The base is amber or musk combined with vanilla, aromas of resins and tree bark.
Spicy - close to oriental, but more tart. To create, oils of cinnamon, ginger, pepper, cloves and other spices and herbs are used.
Chypre - based on patchouli, bergamot, oak moss, resin aromas. A classic for men's perfume. In combination with citrus fruits they give interesting women's fragrances and unisex perfume.
Leather - a synthesis of floral notes with resinous, woody, juniper oils. Such mixtures give unusual smells - smoke, burnt wood, tobacco. Used primarily to create men's perfume.
Water, or aquatic - aromas of freshness, dew, fog, sea breeze, mountain air, summer rain, ozone. In such compositions, essential oils of mint and other herbs, citrus fruits, violets, and lemon are used. It is difficult to make natural perfumes with an aquatic aroma at home, since synthetic molecules are used in their creation.
Gourmet - a family of scents mostly with artificial ingredients. Perfumers create eau de toilette and perfumes with the aroma of caramel, candy, chocolate, cotton candy, saffron, cola, and pear. It’s unlikely that you can do this at home, but warm, delicious compositions with vanilla, orange, cinnamon, and ginger oils are quite possible.

There are also fruity, woody-oriental, green and other families of scents.

Which base is better to choose for your perfume?

The base makes the perfume easier to use and helps the components combine into a harmonious aroma.

Oil perfumes are persistent, but not bright (discreet), since the oil particles hold molecules of volatile aromatic compounds more firmly together. Essential components in such a perfume are no more than 10% of the total volume (20 drops per 10 ml). After mixing, it is better to let the perfume brew for 1-2 weeks. Disadvantage - cannot be applied to clothes and hair.

You can also make solid perfumes using an oil base. This great idea gift and a convenient option for carrying perfume with you, for example, in a medallion or compact jar. They are even used as fragrances, for example, in cars. To create solid perfumes, add cosmetic wax to a liquid oil base or use hardening butters - shea, shea butter, cocoa, coconut.

Alcohol-based perfumes are rich, brighter, but evaporate quickly. After creation, they are left to stand for 1-3 months, shaking from time to time.

The procedure for a home perfumer is simple:

Pre-select the scents of essential oils by applying them dropwise onto paper strips.
Pour alcohol and water (or oil) into a clean, dry container.
Add essential oils in order - base notes, middle notes and lastly top notes.
Close the bottle, shake and leave to infuse in a cool, dark place.

Revealing secrets!

You can create natural scents yourself or use ready-made perfume recipes from essential oils.

Perfume “Freshness of citruses”

Fresh, cool citrus scent with floral notes. Phytoessences in drops per 10 ml of alcohol:

myrrh - 2,
neroli - 3,
myrtle - 1,
lavender - 2,
roses - 1,
petitgrain - 5,
bergamot - 2,
bitter orange - 2.
Perfume "English Garden"

For 20 ml of 80% alcohol and 3 ml of distilled water, take essential oils (in drops):

valerian - 4,
chamomile - 4,
hyssop - 1,
lavender - 2.

Oil perfume recipes for making yourself

For the base, choose one fatty oil, for example, almond. And add the selected phytoessences drop by drop.

Perfume "Tenderness"

Refined floral aroma. For 20 ml of base oil you will need essential oils (in drops):

sandalwood - 3,
blue iris - 3,
jasmine - 1,
roses - 1.
Perfume “Southern Night”

Warm sweet scent with spicy, seductive notes. Add the following essential oils drop by drop to 10 ml of base:

patchouli - 2,
rosewood - 1,
sandalwood - 1,
vanilla - 2,
jasmine - 1,
clary sage - 1,
neroli - 1,
ylang-ylang - 1,
tangerine - 1.

To make solid oil perfume, use the same mixing scheme, only instead of liquid base oil, take solid oil (Shea, cocoa or shea butter) and cosmetic wax previously melted in a water bath. Pour the prepared but not yet hardened mixture into a medallion or flat jar with a lid and wait until it hardens completely (30–40 minutes).

Perfume is an aphrodisiac to attract men

The recipes for these perfumes will not leave men indifferent!

Aphrodisiac oils affect the nervous system, enhancing sensuality and stimulating sexual desire. Among them are phytoessences of sandalwood, cedar, jasmine, bergamot, patchouli, ylang-ylang.

Recipe for aphrodisiac perfume (in drops per 10 ml of fatty oil):

sandal - 2,
cinnamon - 1,
vanilla - 1,
bergamot - 1.

The Aphrodite mixture is also known, in which 20 ml of base oil contains 3 drops of phytoessences of ylang-ylang and rosemary and 2 drops of grapefruit.

Famous perfumes - revealing recipes 😉

The ingredients of famous fragrances are often kept secret. But some recipes for famous perfumes are also available for creating at home. In production, components are used that are inaccessible to the average person, and the exact proportions are not disclosed. But, knowing the composition of all three notes of the aroma, you can reproduce something close in sound to the original perfume.

Montale Candy Rose:

Base: vanilla;
“Heart” of the scent: rose, patchouli, lily of the valley, jasmine;
Top: raspberry, tangerine, lychee, blood orange.

Nina Ricci Nina L'eau:

Base notes: musk;
Base: cherry and gardenia;
“Head” of the composition: neroli, mandarin, grapefruit.

Chanel Chance Eau Vive:

Base: vetiver and white musk;
"Heart": jasmine;
Top: grapefruit and blood orange.

You can find the composition of famous perfumes and eau de toilettes in any major online perfume store and try your hand at creating your favorite scents.

Basics of creating perfume compositions.

A perfume composition, or let's call it “perfume”, is always the result of the author’s creativity. But there are a number of fundamental principles.

Perfume can be alcohol-based (alcohol-based), oil-based (oil-based) or solid (wax-based).

Consider, for example, oil perfumes.

In such perfumes, essential oils can be from 10 to 30%, the rest is an oil base - for example, jojoba oil, which itself is odorless and neutral.

Essential oils in perfumes are divided into three main groups:

The top note or “head of the perfume” - these essential oils are very volatile and “active”; we perceive their aroma first and it kind of prepares us for the main aroma of the perfume. This smell is short-lived and disappears quickly

The heart note is the heart of the perfume, it makes up the main aroma, appears later and lasts for a long time. At the same time, this aroma is like a connecting link between the first and third groups of essential oils. We need to add the esters that are most pleasant to us to the heart note.

The basis is essential oils with a persistent aroma that lasts longer than others and combines well with other essential oils, forming a kind of general background.

Some essential oils can flow smoothly from one group to another, but it is important that the perfume composition maintains its integrity.

3. When composing perfume:

When mixing, first the esters of the main note are added to the base, then the “heart”, then the top note. Another option states that the heart note is added to the base first, followed by the base and then the top note. If after all, any aroma stands out inappropriately or, on the contrary, gets lost, we can balance the composition by adding the esters we need.

In order for the aroma of a perfume to fully manifest itself, it must “ripe”. After composing the perfume, let it sit for four weeks so that the components merge into a single whole. According to another version, 15 days are enough.

How to compose the composition we need?

You need to make several strips of paper, apply essential oils drop by drop on them and label each strip, indicating which essential oil is applied to it. Then, having tasted each one carefully, set aside those that you think will suit you for the composition. Then it's worth seeing how they sound together in different combinations- first the heart notes, then the base, then with the top note...

Having found the most harmonious combination in your opinion, make a sample on a napkin. If the sample is successful, you can implement it.

After adding a couple of essential oils, let them “play”, leaving the bottle for 20-30 minutes, then add the following esters.

When adding essential oils to the base, you need to shake the bottle slightly so that the oil “enters”, but not too much, and Master Cunningham did not recommend shaking, but advised just rotating the bottle a little.

Examples of essential oils for top notes:bergamot, verbena, lemongrass, lime, mandarin, orange, peppermint, lemon, bluebell, rosemary.

Examples of heart note essential oils:geranium, iris, jasmine, chamomile, lavender, lemon balm, mimosa, clary sage, myrtle, neroli, rose, tuberose, ylang-ylang, hyssop. (I personally perceive neroli and lavender as top note esters)

Examples of base note essential oils:benzoin, elemi, galbanum, honey essential oil, musk, cloves, patchouli, rosewood, sandalwood, styrax, vetiver, juniper, incense, cedar (V.I. Zakharenkov classifies it as a heart note), cinnamon, cypress, amber, violet, vanilla.

Floral: Perfume oils in this category have the scent of a single flower or an entire group of flowers. An example is rose, lavender and jasmine oils. These perfume oils have a strong, sweet scent.

Citrus: Perfume oils in this category have a sharp, tart odor, so they are most often used in the production of soaps, facial scrubs and others. cosmetics for skin care. Lemon, grapefruit and tangerine oils fall into this category.

Eastern: These are oils with a spicy and intoxicating aroma of spices and amber, vanilla and musk.

Woody: This group includes oils with the scent of cedar and sandalwood, patchouli and camphor.

Leather: These perfume oils have the scent of wood, tobacco or honey and are therefore used primarily in men's perfumes and aftershave products.

Fougere: This group includes oils with the scent of lavender, coumarin and oak moss.

To write this post, materials were used from the book by V.I. Zakharenkov “Encyclopedia of Fragrances” and from the website

On my own behalf, I will briefly add that it is best to compose perfume compositions on days when the Moon moves through the signs of Air: Gemini, Libra, Aquarius, and Libra is best. It is also good to compose “personal” perfumes when the Moon moves along your ASC - along the rising point of the ecliptic above the horizon at the moment of your birth. Perfume “for love” - Moon according to Venus, for a goal - according to the MC (the highest point of the ecliptic at the moment of your birth), for magical practices - Moon according to the Moon, etc.

It is better not to compose compositions on days of square between the Moon and the Sun, as well as when the Moon is very flawed or very young.

And also about black musk: it’s not true that it doesn’t work, it’s just that the aphrodisiacs on sale with a tiny share are most often imitation of this component, and not a natural product in its full form. Regarding aphrodisiacs: they can be tested on cats, if the cat perks up and reaches out with its nose to the sampler, then it is good, if not, especially if it has a sharply negative attitude towards the smell, then it is not good. IMHO.

Basics of perfume compositions

from "Basics of perfumery and cosmetics production"

Composition is the basis of perfume art. Creating perfumes is both a science and an art.
In table Table 6 shows the components included in some compositions with a floral scent (violet, lily of the valley, rose, carnation, jasmine).
As can be seen from table. 6, in compositions with the smell of violet you can find components of rose, carnations with the smell of lily of the valley - components of jasmine, roses with the smell of jasmine - components of lily of the valley, roses, etc. Therefore, the perfumer can create an unlimited number of different smells by selecting a combination of fragrant substances. The nature of the smell will be determined by the combination and ratio of fragrant substances.
When composing floral compositions, the perfumer is somewhat limited in the choice of fragrant substances. However, it has been established that floral perfumes with the scent of lilac, lily of the valley, violet, etc., created by different perfumers, differ significantly in shades of smell. This is explained by the fact that different perfumers perceive and reproduce the smell of a natural flower differently. The perfumer's abilities are manifested to a much greater extent when creating fantasy compositions, for example, with the smell of chypre, fougere, leather, etc. Perfume compositions with a fantasy smell are the basis of numerous perfumes (Triumph, Visit, Ogonyok, Cinderella, Stone Flower, Only You, Opera, Sardonyx , Nocturne, Russian Shawl, Night Aroma, Chypre, etc.). The scents of chypre and fougère are due to the combination of aromatic substances with a citrus scent, oak moss and components of rose, jasmine and clove.
Let's consider the construction of a perfume composition with a fantasy scent using the example of a composition with the scent of chypre.
There are three stages of smell in perfume compositions, depending on the rate of evaporation of fragrant substances: the initial smell (felt shortly after the evaporation of alcohol from the perfume), the main smell (the smell characteristic of a given name of the perfume) and the final smell (the smell that remains after long-term evaporation of the perfume).
The search for compounds for the initial note is easier, since there is a large assortment of highly volatile aromatic substances with a pleasant odor. You can introduce, for example, orange and bergamot oils, aldehydes with a molecule containing from 9 to 12 carbon atoms. The variations of this recipe can increase almost unlimitedly, while remaining within the framework of the scent of chypre with various shades. Thus, a perfumer can vary perfumes with a given odor character, choosing the combinations he likes. At the same time, he should not try to introduce all existing fragrant substances into the composition. First of all, he selects the products with which he intends to work to create the intended scent.
To obtain the desired scent, the perfumer usually starts from single synthetic aromatic substances and essential oils; he can also combine one base composition with another, taking them in equal quantities or one in greater quantities and the other in less. Then we add individual fragrant substances to these combinations, which determine the initial, main and final odors of the composition. At the same time, many aromatic substances simultaneously determine the initial and main notes of the smell (for example, lavender oil, bergamot, rosemary, etc.).
Thus, first the perfumer creates the main, or so-called leading scent. Then, to the main smell, he selects aromatic substances that complement and harmoniously combine with the main smell and give the perfume a certain fullness, timbre, tone and color.
In both domestic and foreign practice, a new composition, as a rule, is developed not for one type of perfume product, but mainly for a complete series, which includes perfume, cologne, eau de toilette, bath preparation, fragrant talc, etc. Although the composition may also be intended for a narrower series (only for perfumes and colognes or only for perfumes).
The necessary components of perfume compositions for classic colognes are natural citrus oils: orange, tangerine, lemon, bergamot, as well as lavender, rosemary, petitgrain and neroli. Citrus oils contribute to the freshness of the initial scent of colognes. Other products included in perfume compositions for classic colognes only emphasize the note of citrus oils and complement it. Lavender, rosemary, petitgrain and lemon oils add a fresh, floral touch.
In addition to classic colognes, there are also fancy scented colognes, which are classic colognes with the addition of other products.
In foreign practice during recent years The predominant trend is floral compositions with various shades. Becoming especially popular floral scents sweetish-spicy character, close in smell to the so-called oriental style in perfumery.
In parallel with the leading trend represented by floral compositions, another one has developed in foreign perfumery in recent years - musk. The sharp, unpleasant smell of so-called musk oils distinguishes them from traditional perfumery products, as well as more complex compositions based on a combination of the smell of musk with the aromas of jasmine, sandalwood, oakmoss, vanilla and ylang-ylang.
One of the significant indicators of the quality of modern cosmetics, toilet soap and detergents is their smell. These products should be moderately perfumed and evoke a pleasant feeling when used.
Almost all fragrant substances can be used to perfume cosmetic products, but in the concentration that is optimal for them. Some exceptions are those that do not tolerate a certain environment, cause irritation to the skin or mucous membrane, or are incompatible in combination with one another.