Hairstyles of Ancient Rus': classic women's hairstyles, still relevant today. What hairstyles did the ancient Slavs wear? Old Slavic hairstyles

Since ancient times, hair has had a special meaning for humans. It is not for nothing that sorcerers used strands of hair in their magical rituals. Moreover, most often the purpose of such rituals was to cause harm to health.

The power is in the hair

It cannot be said that in ancient times the length men's hair was absolutely equal to the length of women's. Male Slavs regularly cut their hair, but nevertheless their hairstyles were never too short. Men's hair was cut so that the back of the head and ears were covered. Hair was combed from the crown in a circle or simply combed back. Until the 10th century, a straight parting remained popular among princes, with hair length reaching to the shoulders.

Our ancestors believed that it was through their hair that they acquired special power from the gods, the surrounding nature and their ancestors. It is not for nothing that hair has often been compared to a wheat field. Long ears receive more life-giving moisture from the Mother of the Raw Earth and more light from the Sun - Yaril. And the warning of the Slavic god Svarog said: “Do not cut your brown hair, different hair, and with gray hair, for you will not comprehend the Wisdom of God and you will lose your health.”

Long hair in Rus' was associated not only with strength, but also with wisdom. It was believed that the greater their length, the wiser their owner. He receives this wisdom from above, as they would say now - from space. It’s not for nothing that the word “cosmos” is so similar to “cosmos”.

How they cut their hair

Children under a certain age in Rus' did not have their hair cut at all. Before the tonsure ceremony, little Slavs were considered asexual. Boys and girls wore the same clothes and long hair. At the age of 3-7 years, depending on the area, boys had their hair cut, first sitting them next to objects symbolizing masculinity. It could be a harrow, an ax or a saber. Only after the haircut were boys dressed in men's clothing.

Traditions

In the old days, not only women, but also men treated their hair with care. Cutting a man's hair
Only his wife or other close relative was eligible. The cut hairs were thrown into a burning oven or buried under a fruit tree so that the man would not lose his vitality, and also so that no one could use his hair for evil purposes.

If we talk about Slavic hairstyles, male or female, it doesn’t matter, then it is necessary to clarify what time period we're talking about. After all, male and female Slavic hairstyles have changed over time, and the closer to modern times, the more often. This is probably due to the fashion for borrowing from other cultures. Today, hairstyles in the Slavic style are stylizations for different eras; in today's beauty salons, no one can tell you exactly where this or that concept came from. However, there is a lot of literature describing Slavic hairstyles, dating back to the Late Middle Ages. Such developments are based largely on images that have reached us - these are frescoes and drawings in books. There are also references to European and Asian chroniclers who met with the Slavs (for example, the famous diaries of Ibn Fadlan).

But what were Slavic haircuts like originally, in the Early Middle Ages and in even more ancient eras? We do not have an exact answer to this question, because only scant references to the principles on the basis of which such hairstyles were formed have reached us through folklore. For example, the hairstyles of Slavic women, in all likelihood, always included a braid or even several braids. One powerful braid was worn by a married woman; the “spikelet” of the braid in this case personified the unity of the clan. The braid was supposed to be located behind the back along the spine, the main “energy guide” in the human body. The hairstyles of Slavic women who had not yet married could include several braids. Often they were placed not only on the back, but also in front along the shoulders. This is how the woman showed that she was free. At the same time, probably, “baskets” and other aesthetically harmonious figures could be assembled from hair. But the hairstyle of a Slavic woman definitely could not imply loose or short hair. After all, our ancestors believed that human strength lies in hair. Hair, like a kind of antenna-receiver, was saturated with the surrounding force and transmitted it to its owner. Loose hair, on the contrary, gives off energy. A woman could wear her hair down only in the house, among her closest people; even among friends, this option was unacceptable. Not to mention short hairstyles(like a square). Such original Slavic hairstyles never existed, because a woman who needs to share her life force with her children will never deprive herself of an additional influx of energy, this is simply stupid and even dangerous (fraught with disease).

As for men's Slavic haircuts, they also did not imply loose curls, but for a different reason. Men stronger than women from an energy point of view, figuratively speaking, a man is a generator (while a woman is a receiver). But loose hair spoke of negligence, and was simply inconvenient, either in everyday life or in battle. Men wore their hair long enough, but not as long as women's. Judging by the already mentioned diaries of Ibn Fadlan, the men had hair approximately shoulder length. Men's Slavic hairstyles do not involve a braid; the hair is collected in a ponytail. In this case, part of the hair at the back could be located under the tail in a free form (such a haircut can be seen on Geralt of Rivia from the now popular computer game The Witcher 3). Presumably, men could braid several locks of hair into a thin braid, leaving it on the side. This aspect was symbolic meaning, perhaps it was a symbol of a man going to war. However, such a braid was never left in front of the forehead; it could interfere with the fight. The hairstyles of Slavic warriors were not particularly different from everyday ones men's hairstyles. In any case, they climbed into the tail so as not to interfere with the view. There is also one practical aspect to consider here. Considering that the warrior had a helmet, the tail was located near the neck, otherwise the warrior simply could not put on a helmet with a balaclava. This is the only truly logical point that is worth taking into account; otherwise, if we are talking about ancient times, we do not know any special hairstyles of Slavic warriors. Thus, the Slavs' hair, having a special symbolic meaning, was allowed to bloom only in the house. Long hair among the Slavs was the norm; short hairstyles were considered abnormal, no matter whether it was for men or women. At the same time, in women they were, of course, longer, which was partly due to elementary physiology. Long hair among the Slavs is a symbol of beauty and strength; short hair could indicate the “baseness” of human nature, which, by the way, was true for many peoples of the ancient world (with rare exceptions, such as the Romans). Also, short hair could probably serve as an indication of a “slave” position. It is known that since ancient times the Slavs used bereginii - strips of leather or fabric that were tied around the forehead. So even disheveled curls did not interfere with the view, in addition, decorative and protective elements could be hung from the shore, for example, the well-known temple rings, common among Eastern Slavs in the Middle Ages. The hair of the ancient Slavs was almost sacred meaning, therefore, hairstyles were probably approached with great care. Unfortunately, we do not have accurate information about ritual, priestly or military Slavic hairstyles. However, we know the basic principles, we know how our ancestors treated their hair. This is probably enough for a person who is trying to somehow touch his roots and honor past traditions.

In ancient times, many would describe something like this: an elderly man with long hair in a white shirt. However, this is not entirely true. There are many versions of what the Slavs looked like. The topic of their appearance is very interesting, so it deserves more detailed study.

Habitat of Slavic tribes

The Slavs have lived since ancient times in the central part of Europe, in the Carpathian region and in the Carpathian region. According to one version, the advance to the eastern part occurs in the period from the 5th to the 7th centuries AD. If you listen to another, you can hear the version that the Slavs were in Eastern Europe in this part of Europe. There were three large groups: eastern, western and southern. Pagan beliefs determined not only the spirituality of the Slavs, but also their appearance.

It is impossible to say for sure what the Eastern Slavs looked like. A huge number of tribes lived in this territory. These are such as Vyatichi, Volynians, Krivichi, Radimichi, Croats, Polochans and many others. Each of them had its own characteristic features. Among the general things, one can note the fact that the clothes did not have complex details, but the external design was always under special attention. Various patterns, ornaments, and figures were embroidered on fabrics. Various types were used for decorations. They wore bast shoes on their feet. Loose linen shirts were worn under outerwear. The richer a person was, the more clothes he wore. Differences could be in the color of the preferred fabric, size, shape and number of decorations, and methods of weaving bast shoes. We can definitely say that the way the ancient Slavs looked was influenced by the surrounding nature, the way of life and lifestyle of the tribes, as well as their neighbors - the Scythians and Sarmatians.

Are there any similarities with the Vikings?

Some historians categorically reject the image that appears to us of a long-haired man with a beard. It's less like what the ancient Slavs looked like and more like the Vikings.

In their opinion, the Slavs opposed head trimming and beard shaving.
The Scandinavians took this appearance from religious traditions. The Slavs in those days lived on the Baltic coast. Unlike the Vikings, they shaved carefully and cut their hair very short all over their heads, leaving a forelock on their forehead. And the wise men walked with long hair. The Slavs ridiculed the appearance of Scandinavian men. Scientists are trying to determine what the Slavs looked like from the skeletons they found. Thanks to these finds, descendants have the opportunity to become familiar with the jewelry, clothing and accessories used by the ancient Slavs. Similarities with Scandinavian outfits are observed in women's jewelry for hair and hats.

Appearance of Slavic women

At all times, Slavic women used multi-layered clothing. Moreover, different costumes were intended for each event. Appearance also depended on the woman's age. A shirt with wide sleeves was always worn over the body. The closer to our time, the more the appearance of the Slavs became filled with luxury. Clothes became more varied. The head was covered with various headdresses. From ribbons to unusually shaped hats. Women decorated their outfits with beads, which were bright and hung on their chests in several rows. All the clothes were long, almost down to the heels. It was decorated with sewn ribbons, small frills and braid. They also liked to wear large earrings and rings.

Men's Slavic costume

The men wore long shirts - vests. They were wrapped and belted with a belt. The shirts did not have fasteners; some of them were worn on top. Winter clothing was made from the fur of various animals. These include sheepskin coats and mittens. The pants were wide, they were tied at the waist and at the bottom. Wealthy people had several such pants. In winter, woolen ones were worn over canvas ones. Shoes for men and women were made from canvas. They wrapped the legs and attached the sole with straps. The boots were made from a whole piece of leather.

All clothes had embroidery. Over time, it became more and more.

Hairstyles of the ancient Slavs

Hair and hairstyles occupied a special place in the life of the ancient Slavs. One could judge a person's social status by their hairstyle. They cut their hair ritually, observing traditions. This had to be done at a certain period of life. Boys' hair was not allowed to grow long and was cut quite often.

For this reason, the girls needed to grow them, diligently monitor them, caring for them with the help of plant components. Girls wore one or two braids.

As boys grew older, they grew a longer forelock. The rest of the head was cut very short. The forelock was a special attribute. The young man was proud of him, sometimes he twisted him. Adult men most often wore a circle haircut. It is also called “under the pot”. It was with the help of this attribute that a similar hairstyle was made. This was also generally accepted for the Eastern Slavs.

It is impossible to say reliably what the Slavs looked like. One thing that is certain is that their clothes were comfortable and spacious, regardless of the era.

In Rus', since pre-Christian times, it was believed that the style and shape of the Slavic men's hairstyle reflects on a person's spirituality. The fashion for changing hairstyles was introduced by Peter I, after having visited Europe, he returned to Russia and subjected his entourage to the forced cutting of their beard and hair. It was from the time of Peter the Great that the peoples of Western Europe became the trendsetters of hairdressing fashion.

Of course, men's Slavic hairstyles, until the 17th century, were not distinguished by variety and originality.

In the pre-Petrine era, the goal of hairdressing in Rus' was to make haircuts as practical as possible. Long hair should not have obstructed the view of the hunter or warrior, and not interfere with the beekeeper or fisherman during their fishing. However, since ancient times it was believed that short haircut deprives a representative of the stronger half of humanity of his inner strength. At the same time, those falling on the shoulders were also not particularly popular, and their wearer could be classified as marginalized - people seeking to move away from the original Russian traditions and therefore capable of betraying their homeland.

If you take a closer look at the history of men's Slavic hairstyles, you can see the difference in the haircuts of the southern and northern Slavs.

And here fashion was also determined by practicality. Residents of Novgorod, Ryazan and Vladimir preferred to wear street hairstyles, complemented by a beard. This was largely caused by the harsh winter, which made the use of natural vegetation as additional factor, preventing frostbite on the face. At the same time, the Oseledets of the inhabitants of the Zaporozhye Sich, coupled with a mustache and lack of a beard, made it easier to endure the summer heat.

The practicality and convenience of men's hairstyles of the Northern Slavs was complemented by various hairdressing accessories, the simplest of which was a forehead strap. It was its use that prevented hair from falling into the eyes, making the work of a blacksmith, carpenter, and farmer easier.

For warriors, long hair prevented the combat helmet or chain mail cap from rubbing the scalp. If we take into account the continuity of wars in Rus', starting from the Battle of the Kalka River and ending with the Time of Troubles, then it is not difficult to understand that the elongated hair of the Slavic hairstyle also played a unitary role.

At the same time, one should not assume that the long hair of the Slavs was in disarray or had an unkempt appearance.

For the Slavs, the bathhouse is an invariable attribute, the attitude towards which was, if not semi-religious, at least of a mystical nature. It was in the bathhouse that the brownie most often hid, and weekly bathing is still considered an original Slavic tradition.

From ancient times, today's hair care practice includes washing it with curdled milk, whey, egg yolk or bread leaven.

If we compare it with the hair care culture of the British, then here too you can see a difference in the methods of washing it. Until the beginning of the 20th century in England, it was customary to first wash your hands in a special basin, and then move on to washing your face and hair. There was no such thing as dousing yourself with water from a bucket in Western Europe.

You should not think that in ancient times and in more recent times, the most popular among the Slavs was the hairdressing style of the “pot-top” hairstyle.

On icons and ancient miniatures you can see Slavic men's hairstyles with an elixir-like trimming of the hair contour. In addition, the long strands curled slightly outward. It should be remembered that the fashion for various wigs came to Russia during the time of Peter the Great’s reforms, and in everyday life, wigs became widespread among officers during the reign of Peter III and Paul I.

Fragment of Nikolai Ovechkin's painting "The Last Battle of Svyatoslav"

Because hair does not stay in the ground for long. Sometimes it is possible to detect their remains, but for this they had to - for example - come into contact with metal. However, such cases are very rare, so we will catch information about hairstyles not in graves, but in images or in the texts of chronicles or chronicles.

[Hairstyle of Prince Svyatoslav Igorevich]

This is a sore subject, perfect for debate. There is a description by the Greek historian Leo the Deacon, who described the appearance of Prince Svyatoslav Igorevich this way: “(...) His head was completely naked, but a tuft of hair hung from one side of it - a sign of the nobility of the family.”

[Fig.1] Prince Svyatoslav Igorevich

The Byzantine did not include a picture, and what was meant by the tuft of hair is unclear. Now this gives rise to a lot of versions. Some say it’s the hair on the shaved top of the head, the so-called “oseledets”, others say it’s a tuft of hair on the side of the head, above the ear.

Still others put forward an equally interesting version. They say that the entire squad, including Svyatoslav Igorevich, shaved their heads before the campaign. And since long hair was a sign of his noble family, the prince left a tuft of his old hairstyle.

Something similar can be found on a dish made by Bulgarian craftsmen. Here it is:

[Fig.2] Hairstyle of a Bulgarian warrior


However, the hairstyle of Prince Svyatoslav Igorevich is the hairstyle of Prince Svyatoslav Igorevich. His namesake, Svyatoslav Yaroslavich, preferred a different image.

[Hairstyle of Prince Svyatoslav Yaroslavich]

Here is a miniature from the 11th century, decorating one of the most ancient Russian books - Izbornik Svyatoslav.

[Fig.3] Hairstyle of Prince Svyatoslav Yaroslavich

As we see, Prince Svyatoslav Yaroslavich and his sons, as well as his nephew Yaropolk, are depicted with fairly short hair.

[Hairstyle of Prince Yaropolk Izyaslavich]

And here is a miniature of the same times from the Trier Psalter, which is also called the “Gertrude Code”. On it we see the Grand Duke of Kyiv Izyaslav Yaroslavich, grandson of Yaroslav the Wise. It looks very much like the prince has a bowl cut haircut.

[Fig.4] Hairstyle of Prince Yaropolk



[Hairstyle of Prince Vsevolod the Big Nest]

The northern facade of the Dmitrievsky Cathedral in the city of Vladimir is decorated with a bas-relief. It depicts Prince Vsevolod Yuryevich, nicknamed the Big Nest [Fig. 5].

Prince Vsevolod Yurievich, nicknamed the Big Nest [Fig. 5].


The nickname stuck to him thanks to the large number of children. He (the tenth son of Yuri Dolgoruky) was the father of eight sons and daddy of four daughters. The sons (though not all) are depicted in the bas-relief around the father. Let's call them by name.

Konstantin "the Good", first prince of the newly formed Rostov principality,
- Yuri is the founder of Nizhny Novgorod,
- Yaroslav - father of Alexander Nevsky,
- Svyatoslav - who destroyed the Bulgarian city of Oshel in 1220
- Gleb.

As we can see, none of them wears anything similar to the hairstyle of Prince Svyatoslav Igorevich. Moreover, hair styled in this way will not seem like an extreme style even today, that is, eight hundred years later.

Now let's move to the West.

[Hairstyles of European warriors of the 11th-12th centuries]

For example, take the famous Bayo Carpet. It depicts the confrontation between the Anglo-Saxons and Norman warriors.

[Fig.6] Carpet from Bayo


The Normans generally shave their faces, although a couple of warriors wear mustaches. But their hairstyles were very colorful - they shaved their heads to the back and sides. However, this fashion did not last long.

The Anglo-Saxons, on the contrary, wore long mustaches. And since we’re talking about mustaches, it’s time to return to Mother Rus', but at a later time.

[Hairstyles of Novgorodians of the XIV-XV centuries]

On carved panels from the Cathedral of St. Nicholas in the city of Stralsund, Novgorod hunters are depicted with long braids. The carving dates back to 1400 or so.

[Fig.7] Novgorod hunters


This is one of the most unusual images of Russian people of that time. Whether they really walked around Novgorod like this or is it the author’s fantasy is still unclear.

But the description of the traveler Gilbert de Lannoy, who visited Novgorod around 1415, is very apropos, at about the same time at which the above panels were made. So here it is. De Lannoy writes that in Novgorod women wear two braids, and men wear one.

And here is a fragment of the famous icon “Praying Novgorodians”, on which we see the Novgorod boyars:

[Fig.8] Hairstyles of Novgorodians


Here is a more familiar image of Novgorod townspeople: everything is as it should be and beards without fanaticism.

[The Most Versatile Hairstyle]

[Fig.9] Bald warrior


Well, the most universal, timeless hairstyle is found in one of the miniatures of the Radziwill Chronicle. Look at the warrior on the left. He's completely bald!

Sources:

  • Ludota
  • Materials from "Also Forum"
  • Constable D. Beards in history. Symbols, fashions, perception // Odyssey. Man in history. 1994. M., 1994. S. 165-181.
  • Photo from the archives of the historical club "Bear Yard" (Ufa)
  • Fragment of Nikolai Ovechkin's painting "The Last Battle of Svyatoslav"