Fabric cardboard mk. Box made using cardboard technique

- how to do it DIY bonbonniere box. All available materials produce such beauty. This box can be a great gift for a birthday or wedding.

Bonbonniere using cardboard technique

With the help of this master class, today we will make a bonbonniere using the cardboard technique. It is very easy to make, so for those who are afraid of working with cardboard, this is a great option to start with. Moreover, we will decorate the fabric with napkins and make the lid soft. The process will be interesting and such an accessory will store various small items, jewelry, or be used for its intended purpose for a long time (“bonbonniere” translated from French means candy bowl).

To make a bonbonniere we will need:

binding cardboard 3 mm thick;
fabric – 100% cotton in two colors: for the inside of the bonbonniere and the outside;
napkins with the desired pattern;
white Whatman paper;
PVA glue;
glue “Moment Crystal”;
stationery knife;
stack;
scissors;
ruler;
pencil;
masking tape;
cutting mat;
cloth to wipe off excess glue;
padding polyester;
brush.

First you need to cut out all the parts in order to assemble the bonbonniere. We draw rectangles of the required sizes with a pencil and cut them out under the ruler with a stationery knife on a cutting mat or surface that you don’t mind.

Now we apply glue to any one edge of the bottom (10 x 10 cm) and glue a wall measuring 10 x 5 cm to it. We do the same with the second wall, only glue it to the opposite side.

Now we apply glue along the remaining free edges and fasten the remaining sides, forming even joints. This glue dries quite quickly and sets both pieces quickly, so you just need to hold the two edges in place for a few seconds. If excess glue creeps out, wipe it off with a rag.

To make the structure even stronger, we will cover all joints inside and outside with masking tape. It is necessary that the tape is tightly glued to the surface and repeats the shape of a right angle, therefore, when gluing the tape, we smooth the surface with a stack.

If the cardboard is dark in color, as in this case, then all the outer walls, except the bottom and lid, must be covered with white Whatman paper. Therefore, we cut out rectangles to fit all four walls, apply a very thin layer of glue with a brush and glue the paper to the cardboard. The main thing is not to overdo it with glue, otherwise the cardboard may become deformed.

We have assembled a blank box. Now you need to cover everything with fabric. We will decorate the fabric for the outer part with napkins. If you don't want to do this, then choose a fabric with a ready-made print.

Cut a strip of fabric measuring 42 x 7 cm and iron it. Apply glue to one side of the box in a very thin layer, retreat 1 cm from each edge and glue this side to the fabric.

We gradually paste over all other sides in this way. Each side must be smoothed with a stack so that the surface is even. Finally, fold the edge inward and seal it.

Both the bottom and top free allowances need to be sealed. To do this, you must first cut all the corners diagonally with scissors. Just be careful not to cut off too much.

We glue each allowance, forming a flat surface in a stack.

Now we will seal the bottom inside and outside. To do this, you need to cut blanks from whatman paper to the size of the bottom, only for the inside, it should be slightly smaller in size - you need to take measurements first. We glue this Whatman paper to the ironed fabric. We cut out the fabric, making 1 cm indentations from the paper on all sides. Immediately level the surface with a stack of fabric. For each part we cut off the corners, but only in one we glue the allowances inside. This part is for the outer part of the bottom, which we immediately glue.

Apply glue 1 cm upward to the inner bottom of the bonbonniere and the wall, and glue the second blank. We smooth all sides with a stack, forming corners.

Now we cut out rectangles according to the dimensions of the inner walls of the box. Each workpiece must be tried on the wall so that it is located there freely and there are even 1 mm indentations along the edges. Excess paper needs to be cut off.

We glue the blanks onto fabric of a different color. For two sides we seal all the allowances, and for the other two only along the length.

First, we glue two blanks opposite each other with free allowances, and then we glue the remaining two.

All that remains is to decorate the fabric surface with napkins and make a lid.

We tear the napkin with our hands into fragments that will fit the height of the bonbonniere and divide them into three layers. We need a layer with a pattern. Let's make it simple.

Apply glue to the wall surface.

We glue the napkin on top and also apply glue to it, leveling the layer with a brush.

We decorate the bottom of the bonbonniere in the same way.

We will also decorate the upper part of the lid with flowers. First, cover the fabric with napkins and let it dry. The fabric should be 12 x 12 cm in size, and on an area measuring 10.6 x 10.6 cm we glue the pattern.

We glue padding polyester to the top side of the lid. The volume of the lid will depend on the thickness of the layer. We fasten the fabric, gluing only the allowances on the bottom of the lid, before cutting off the corners.

It remains to paste over the last part - the inside of the lid. We cover one side with whatman paper. We cut out the fabric with allowances and glue it to the side with whatman paper. In the same way as in other parts, we seal the allowances.

Glue the inner and outer sides of one lid using Moment glue.

Let the product dry thoroughly, and then just close the lid.

In the end we made a nice one DIY bonbonniere using cardboard technique!

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More interesting:

Cartoning: preparatory work

Any work with cardboard requires patience and accuracy: incorrectly drawn lines can lead to unsightly gaps being visible between the walls of the product; the appearance of the work will be greatly affected if the parts are asymmetrical or if traces of adhesive appear on the seams.

The tools that will be needed in the process are a good and sharp stationery knife or cutter, a ruler, a pencil, a board for cutting out pattern elements, a special device for folding cardboard - a folding sheet, or any device that can replace it.

Starch paste, gum arabic crushed and dissolved in warm water, or high-quality wood glue are traditionally used as an adhesive composition. When working with glue parts ALWAYS Spread starting from the middle and moving towards the edges.

Thin paper - gold and silver sheets, border strips, it is more convenient to glue with gum arabic; smooth paper, natural and artificial leather, thick fabrics, cardboard are glued with wood glue, because paste can cause these materials to change their texture.

To glue two sheets of cardboard, they are lubricated with adhesive and covered with a sheet of paper, smoothed with the palm of your hand, moving from the middle to the edges and expelling the air. After this, the part is placed under a press until completely dry.

Boxes for storing small items

An old professional book suggests starting with the study of cardboard craftsmanship by making a series of boxes of various sizes: they are convenient to use for storing any collection, handicraft items, and household items. The author of the publication intends to use these boxes for a collection of minerals, so he recommends covering the inside with blue paper, because... It is this color that gives the stones a beautiful hue. But we can choose any other color.

The publication suggests making 21 boxes, arranging them according to the diagram below to get the correct square.

Dimensions of future finished products, folded according to the diagram:

boxes № 1 - 12.5 x 7.5 cm;
boxes № 2 - 15 x 12.5 cm;
boxes № 3 - 25 x 15 cm;
boxes № 4 - 37.5 x 15 cm;
boxes № 5 - 25 x 22.5 cm.

The height of all boxes is the same - 5 cm.

To make these boxes we will need blanks of the following sizes:

For boxes No. 1, four cardboard pieces 22.5 cm long, 17.5 cm wide;
for boxes No. 2, eight cardboard parts 25 cm long, 22.5 cm wide;
for boxes No. 3, seven cardboard parts 35 cm long, 25 cm wide;
for boxes No. 4 one cardboard piece 47.5 cm long, 25 cm wide;
for boxes No. 5 one cardboard piece 35 cm long, 32.5 cm wide.

Before cutting out the parts, the cardboard is covered with paper of the desired color, smoothing the sheet from the center to its edges and placing it under a press until the adhesive composition dries. Having prepared the parts of the required size, we begin to cut them so that we can make the sides of the boxes. For these purposes, you can secure the ruler with nails on the board where the parts are cut, placing small thin planks under the ends of the ruler. At a distance of 5 cm from the edge of the ruler, two nails are driven into the board, against which a sheet of cardboard will rest.

Place a sheet of cardboard under the ruler and cut it in the right places (corners). Then the box is folded along the marked lines, and for greater strength of the product, the corners of the product are glued with thin paper. To make folding the sides of the box easier, it is recommended to iron the fold lines with a folding cloth or any other non-sharp object.

To cover the outside of the boxes, strips 6.5 cm wide are cut from colored paper. The strips are coated with glue and placed on the box so that 5-7 mm falls on the bottom of the product, and the same amount for bending inward. The strip is glued around the perimeter of the box, the paper is smoothed, the corners are cut off and smoothed along the bottom of the product. The strip is folded into the inside of the box without making cuts, and the corners are smoothed with folded paper.

Rectangular pencil case

To cut out a rectangular pencil case, you need to draw a square ABCD, the sides of which are equal to 30 cm. We divide the upper and lower sides of the square (AD and BC) into four equal parts, obtaining lines ON, RS, PQ, along which small cuts are made.

20 cm are laid along line AB from point A and along line CD from point D and connect these two points to each other, obtaining lines KM. Along this line, the part is cut into two parts, obtaining two elements of the future pencil case: part AKMD is the bottom of the product, and BCMK is its lid.

The cardboard is bent along the cuts and, using strips of paper, the line AK is glued to DM and BK to CM. While the glue is drying, two square bottoms for the pencil case are cut out of cardboard - the length and width of which should be equal to the segment AN. These bottoms do not need to be glued yet, because... this may make it difficult to finish the interior of the product.

Two strips, 1.5 cm wide and about 33 cm long, are cut from gold, silver or any colored paper, and these strips are pasted over the edges of the lid of the pencil case and its main part (line KM), bending the strips from the outside inwards.

If desired, you can cover the entire inside of the product with colored paper, smoothing the corners with the edge of a ruler.

A pencil case pattern is drawn again on a sheet of thin cardboard, but sides AN, NS, SQ, DQ should be several millimeters smaller than the details of the first pattern, and the height of side AB should be 1.5 less. Having cut this blank on the sides NO, RS, PQ, you need to try to see whether this part easily fits into the main part of the pencil case and whether the lid of the product is placed on it freely.

This part is covered on both sides with colored paper to match the inside, after which it is glued into the main part of the pencil case. At the end of the work, the previously prepared bottoms are glued and the outside of the pencil case is decorated.

Matchbox

Wall-mounted decorative matchboxes were a fairly common element of kitchen decor in the last century. To work, you will need a sheet of thick cardboard, folded in half, onto which the symmetrical pattern below is transferred.

The front side of the cardboard blank is covered with decorative paper (in the past, match holders made of cardboard, decorated to look like wood, were very popular) and left to dry under pressure.

While the workpiece is drying, cut out part B and glue a box from it. The finish of this box, both inside and outside, should be in harmony with part A. The box is glued to the main part of the matchbox and just below is attached a sheet of any rough material on which matches will be lit.

How to make a cardboard box

Having learned how to make simple objects, you can move on to making more complex objects: let's see how to make a cardboard box suitable for storing various small items.

On a sheet of fairly thick cardboard, draw two rectangles 25 cm long and 15 cm wide - these are the details of the bottom and lid of the future box.

Then the following blanks are made: two strips A and B, 10 cm wide and 25 cm long; two strips C and D, also 10 cm wide, and 15 cm long more than double the thickness of the cardboard used.

(That is, if the thickness of the cardboard is, say, 5 mm, its double thickness = 1 cm, then the length of the workpiece should be, for example, 16 cm.)

Each of these strips is cut lengthwise into 2 parts so that one part is 3.8 cm wide and the other 6.3 cm ( such uneven numbers are explained by the ancient long measure, translated into a modern way).

First, long strips 6.3 cm wide are attached to the pre-prepared bottom of the box and glued with a strip of thin paper, and then the side strips. From the inside, all corners of the box are also reinforced with a strip of paper. In exactly the same way, blanks are made for the lid of the future box.

To make the “neck” of the box, a strip 8.75 cm wide and 80 cm long is cut out of thinner cardboard. The part is cut and bent so that it fits freely into the box. The lower part of the part, about 6 cm wide, is smeared with glue, after which it is inserted into the box and smoothed out.

After this part is ready, you can begin finishing it: cut a strip about 2 cm wide from a sheet of decorative paper and paste it over the place of the box where the “neck” begins so that the paper covers both part of the box and part of the “neck” ". In the above figure, this place is shown as a dotted line.

When finishing the lid in the same way, use strips of paper to paste over the edges, folding half the strip inward. The inside of the box can be covered with white glossy paper. This work begins with the bottom and lid, and the strip of paper is made slightly wider and longer than the bottom so that it covers part of the side parts on each side.

From such white paper, cut a strip about 4 cm wide and 50 cm long and use it to paste over the “neck” of the box, bending the excess inward. Then two ribbons are glued to the sides of the box (not the lid!) from the inside, which will support the lid.

Then a strip about 6 cm wide and 82 cm long is cut from the same white glossy paper and pasted over all four sides of the box from the inside, smoothing out the strip in the corners with special care.

The box is closed with a lid and a tape made of thin but durable fabric is glued along its back side so that part of it falls on the lid, part on the box, thus firmly connecting both parts and acting as hinges.

When the glue has dried, open the lid of the box (do not fold it back completely while the product is in use) and glue the free ends of the ribbons, after which the inner sides of the lid are decorated with a white strip about 2 cm wide. The outside of the box is covered with beautiful decorative paper, folding the excess to the bottom and subsequently covering the bottom with plain paper without a pattern.

Now that the cardboard box is almost completely ready, all that remains is to make compartments for various small items and attach a mirror. The diagram of the box with compartments is shown below:

To make such partitions, strips 8.75 cm wide are cut out of cardboard; the main longitudinal strip has a length of about 25 cm, and the six transverse ones should be about 7 cm. The upper edge of each partition is covered with a strip of decorative paper, and their sides are covered with white glossy paper.

To ensure that the partitions do not move and are well kept in place, strips 7.5 cm wide are cut out of cardboard; the length of two of them should be about 14.5-14.7 cm, the length of four strips - about 7 cm and the length of two more strips - about 5 cm. These parts are covered with white paper on one side, bending its edges along the top and bottom sides .

A long partition is placed in the center of the box, after which six transverse ones are placed in accordance with the diagram. Those strips that were covered with glossy paper are glued to the sides of the box and partitions in those places indicated by the dotted line in the figure. While the glue dries, make boxes divided into three parts (in the diagram - indicated by the letter a). Their depth is no more than 2.5 cm and each such box must be divided into three parts by two partitions. These compartments are covered with decorative paper in the same way as all other parts of the box.

On the diagram the department d designed to accommodate a pincushion, you can come up with another purpose for it by leaving it empty and putting the necessary items there. I will continue the story, adhering to the material in the book. The height of the box in this compartment should be 5 cm and be of such dimensions as to fit freely into this part of our box.

A layer of cotton wool is placed on the bottom of this box, which is covered with a flap, the edges of this flap are glued to the sides of the box, after which the pillow is covered with a beautiful fabric, which is also glued to the sides. After this, the outside of the box is coated with a layer of glue and carefully placed in the compartment of the box reserved for it.

For compartments marked with the letter b, You can make lids by cutting them out of cardboard and making small holes in the center. A thin layer of cotton wool is placed on the top of such a lid, covered with silk fabric and, bending the edges inward, glued it to the part. The eye of a beautiful button is inserted into the holes, and on the other side a small stick is passed through this eye for fixation. Then the bottom of the lid is covered with white glossy paper.

And lastly, they decorate the lid: a mirror is placed on its inside, its edges are glued with strips of paper, after which they make a beautiful frame, completing the work of making an original cardboard box.

How to make a briefcase out of cardboard

A cute briefcase is useful for storing various papers, documents, receipts, patterns or magazines; it is indispensable for children's games or for storing small collections of postcards and calendars.

To make such a briefcase from cardboard, cut out two identical parts A And b, and also detail With, the width of which will be the same as that of the first two parts, but a figured tongue will be cut from one edge of the part.

Two strips of thin artificial leather are smeared with glue and connect all three parts, bending the excess strip inward. Distance between parts A And b is about 3-4 mm, and between parts b And With- about 2.5 cm.

On one side, the future briefcase is covered with decorative paper, folding the excess onto the inside; Moreover, when gluing the side with a cut-out tongue, the edges of the paper must be cut into teeth in order to be able to glue it as evenly and neatly as possible.

Detail With, indicated by a dotted line in the diagram, the inside is covered with silk fabric or decorative paper and placed to dry under a press.

For the briefcase pocket you will need exactly the same parts as A And b, on one side covered with beautiful paper. While the blanks are drying, two strips about 10 cm wide and a length equal to the width of our briefcase are cut from a piece of thin leather. The strips are smeared with glue on the inside and glued as shown in the figure below.

Lubricate the pocket on the outside with glue, glue the prepared blank with parts onto it a, b, c and all the work is placed under a press so that it does not deform during the drying process.

I want to tell you how to make a jewelry box using the cardboard technique. I love this technique because it allows you to make a beautiful and practical thing from simple and affordable materials. You can come up with any shape, any number of departments and drawers - and you can do all this from a sheet of cardboard and a piece of fabric.

For the master class, I chose a relatively simple form of jewelry box. It has one department for small bracelets, chains, pendants, etc. and a department for rings and earrings. It can be a very successful gift and will not require large financial investments from you. Or maybe you want to make one for yourself to store your treasures :)

In this master class you will learn basic cardboard techniques, get acquainted with one of the types of hinges and a method for making a puffy cover on such a hinge. The latter can also be useful for those who make notebooks.

There will be a lot of text and pictures too. I tried to describe for you not only the sequence of actions, but also explain why I suggest doing it this way. So that you know in advance about some possible mistakes and ways to avoid them.

We will need:

Materials:

Binding cardboard (2mm thick will be enough).
PVA glue. (You need something thick and not yellowing over time. For example, PVA Furniture from the Lakra company. A more expensive option is PVA from Henkel. You will find both of them in construction stores. If you are not sure that you need 1 kg of glue and If you want to try just one box, then PVA from the company "Luch" will do. From the types of PVA that I have seen in office supply stores, I believe only this one).
Masking tape (about 4cm wide) or thin kraft paper to reinforce the ribs.
Glue "Moment-crystal".
Ordinary Whatman paper.
Textile. (100% cotton is best. It will be easier with it. It sticks well and does not stretch. At least a couple of companion fabrics. The main thing is without synthetics).
Tapes - 2 pieces, 15 cm each (these will be stoppers for the lid).
Optional - padding polyester and decorations for the lid.

Tools:

A wide knife with segmented blades (I like the construction knife better. The stationery knife has a thin blade and cuts cardboard worse).
Scissors.
Self-healing cutting mat. Or an unnecessary piece of linoleum.
Ruler. (At least one iron ruler with precise markings. I have three of them: a meter ruler for drawing long lines across the entire sheet of cardboard, a short one with precise markings, and a large transparent rectangular ruler.)
Synthetic glue brush. She should have neat stubble. Otherwise, take the cheapest one.
Pencil, sharpener, eraser.
Stack to smooth all surfaces and corners.
A cloth to immediately wipe off the glue on the work surface.
A jar with low sides to pour some glue from a large jar into.
Not necessarily a roller knife. Some cardboard makers like to use it to cut cardboard. I love cutting fabric with it. Convenient, but you can do without it, it’s not cheap.

Assembling the base

Where does any cardboard box start? From the drawing! Cartoning requires precision. Therefore, as soon as you have an idea for a future box, take paper and write down the exact dimensions of the parts. There are no particular difficulties here. You just need to always take into account the thickness of the cardboard. In our case 2 mm. As an example, I will give the exact dimensions of my box:

When laying out, try to place pieces of the same width side by side. This makes it easier to cut them into equal parts.

When slicing, keep the tip of the knife perpendicular to the cardboard (no need for chamfers here). The knife itself is angled in a position that is comfortable for the hand. And cut vertically from the far edge towards yourself. Smooth perpendicular cuts should be obtained. These are the ones that will give us a strong connection without distorting the shape of the box.

Please note that the factory edge of the binding board is not smooth. There are two options - cut off this edge or sand the cut parts. This can be done with a file or sandpaper. The main thing is to end up with parts of a given size with smooth edges.

We cut out all the parts from the binding cardboard and proceed to assembling the box. For this step we will need masking tape (or craft paper), a moment crystal and a stack.

We glue the walls from above to the bottom, not from the sides. Apply glue to the long wall part, on the bottom of the cardboard cut, like toothpaste. Generous enough. It’s easy to remove the excess later, but if there is not enough glue, the box will be shaky.

Place the part and align it. By the way, here we see one of the advantages of our glue - it does not dry out instantly and allows you to move the part and put it exactly in place. When you have aligned the part, press it on top with both hands - this way the glue will better adhere to the parts. Remove excess glue. I just remove it with my finger. If you are worried about your manicure (the glue does dry out), then try removing this excess with something metallic.

After the long wall we glue two short ones. Here we apply glue to both sides to glue the joints with the bottom and the long wall.

Align, press. You should get a neat corner without steps. All joints must be smooth, one part smoothly transitions into another. Because these small “thresholds” will be noticeable even after gluing the box, and the appearance will not be very neat.

Next we need to glue a partition between the two sections. In order to glue it evenly, I first marked its location on the walls of the box (see photo above). Apply glue to the cuts on three sides and insert the partition into place.

Now put the glue aside and paint all the upper sections of the parts with white acrylic paint. This is necessary so that the color of the fabric on the sides is not distorted and it does not look dirty. Avoid paint runs!

While the paint dries, we will strengthen all the ribs. You can use strips of craft paper and glue them onto PVA, or you can use masking tape. I like the second option.

Let's start outside. Cut a piece of tape slightly shorter than the side of the box. It is not necessary to glue from corner to corner; I find it convenient to take the pieces a little shorter. Since the walls will become completely motionless and the corners will subsequently be covered on both sides with fabric, I am not worried about them. So, apply a piece of tape and smooth it out with a stack. This is important. In order for the tape to really hold the cardboard well, it must be smoothed and pressed properly.

To move along the edge to the other side, I press the tape at an angle with two thumbs exactly on the edge. And gradually I seem to “roll” with my fingertips to the other side. And I smooth it out with a stack. There is only one thumb in the photo, because the second one is occupied by the camera :)

In general, the cardboard stack should become your mantra and second hand :) Ultimately, you should not have a single centimeter left unironed.

We go through all the external edges in this way: both vertical and horizontal.

It's a little more difficult to paste on the inside and not so convenient. We pinch a piece of tape with two or three fingers and place it in place. At the same time, we apply it only to one side for now. You don’t need to glue it to the second one right away.

We hold the free side with the finger of one hand, using the other hand we stroke the tape from the glued edge towards the corner and gradually move it towards the corner. We carefully move the same stack along the depression and thus paste the tape into the corner, while simultaneously moving the other hand away from there so that it does not interfere.

In this way we strengthen all the joints from the inside.

Now let's prepare the platform for the rings. It should not be as deep as the main compartment, because then it will be inconvenient to use. At this place, if desired, you can make a remote drawer, but let’s not complicate the design now. In order to raise the floor, we glue “supports” to the long walls of the small compartment. And we’ll glue a pad on top of them.

Ta-dam! We have finished the cardboard base of our box :) I like the next stage more, because with each piece of fabric glued the box is transformed.

Pasting with fabric

What is useful to remember when working with fabric?

The fabric completely covers the cardboard. There should be no gaps anywhere in the finished box.
Wherever possible, we avoid open cuts. I will show how they can be made so that they do not crumble, but this can only be used on stationary elements. In all other cases, we fold the fabric. It is advisable to minimize the thickness of the folds.
Apply the glue in a thin, even layer so that it does not bleed through the fabric onto the front side. If this happens, blot the affected area with a damp cloth. Several times until you remove all the excess. It is not possible to completely remove glue from every fabric, so it is better to avoid such mistakes.

Let's start with the back side. Since it will be glued to the spine, it is not necessary to completely cover it with fabric; we will make do with a narrow strip of fabric. Cut out a piece of fabric equal to the long side of the box and 4 cm wide. I missed a couple of photos here, but I'm sure you can imagine a rectangle of fabric. First glue it to the back side of the wall and cut it as shown in the photo. At both ends and above the partition.

We coat the edge and the strip on the inside of the wall with glue. We bend the fabric in the same way as we glued the tape, stretching it over a cut of cardboard and carefully ironing it with a stack.

Now from white Whatman paper we cut out a rectangle with a length equal to two short walls and one long one. The height of the paper part is equal to the height of the walls along with the thickness of the bottom. For us it is 6.2 cm.

Apply glue to the paper part in a thin, even layer. If you cannot evenly distribute the layer of glue with a brush, use a roller. But I like working with a brush.

Glue the paper piece to the wrong side of the fabric. There are two interesting points here:

I don't cut the fabric ahead of time. Instead, I first glue the paper piece to a solid piece of fabric, and only then cut out the desired piece. Why? This makes it convenient for me to measure allowances, and also convenient for aligning the paper part with respect to the pattern or threads in the weave of the fabric.

2. If the part is long, do not try to cover it all with glue at once. Do this in sections. Covered, for example, 15 cm in length, glued to the fabric. We folded back the dry part, covered another 15 cm with glue, glued it to the fabric, etc. Because good thick PVA dries quickly enough and it is unlikely that you will be able to do this all at once over the entire length, say, 40 cm.

We begin to glue our part to the front long wall. Yes, we start from the middle :) This makes it easier to avoid skewing the part. If you've ever tried to stick a long piece of tape to something, you'll know what I'm talking about.

Before we glue the seam allowances to the back wall, we'll make cuts like these on them and form the corners.

Our blank is now glued on the outside, but the seam allowances are sticking up and down. Let's do something about this.

We bend the seam allowance sticking up on the long wall and glue it. He does not participate in the formation of corners. To make corners on short walls, you need to successfully fold the fold. We have already formed the corner near the back wall (see photo above), we just need to glue it. We will first form the second fold “dry” without glue. To feel how the fabric will lie. We are not cutting anything here. Please note that the entire fold should lie on the short wall and fit neatly into the corner, without creeping onto the long wall

From behind, after these manipulations, the workpiece looks like this:

Now you need to glue the allowances on the bottom. There are two options: to do this without trimming the fabric and with trimming. I choose the second one. Why? Because without trimming we will get folds in three layers of fabric. And these three layers will then be like the “legs” of a 1mm thick box. This millimeter will not allow the box to be glued to the bottom tightly enough over the entire area.

So let's cut :) You need to trim so that there is 2-3 mm left for a tiny fold. Further, the slices should not overlap each other. We will need a small fold so that the outside corners will look neat later. And the miniature size of the folds and their small thickness will give us the opportunity to press them into cardboard.

After gluing, we get flat corners.

Now you need to cover the bottom inside the box. To do this, cut out two parts from paper, the sizes matching the sizes of the bottoms in two sections of the box. Glue these parts onto the fabric, cut them out with 1.5 cm allowances. Cut the fabric diagonally, leaving 1.5-2 mm to the corners of the paper. You don’t need any more, because then you won’t be able to fit this allowance neatly into the corner of the box.

First, coat the bottom with glue and place our part there. Then we glue the allowances and corners. We smooth everything out with a stack.

To cover the section of cardboard, we cut out a rectangle of fabric near the partition, just as we cut out a fragment for the back wall. But with one significant difference. Remember, above I wrote that I would show the moment when we have an open cut? This is him. And our task is to play with this cut so that it is as unnoticeable as possible. To do this, we need the fabric not to fray. This is easy to achieve - before cutting the fabric, coat the areas of future cuts with glue. But be very careful so that the glue does not bleed onto your face.

Here's what we have at the moment:

At this interesting point, we will put aside our preparation and move on to the cover. This is because of the stopper tapes. In principle, you can make the cover first and then, without interruption, the box. But I like this order.

Cover

Our cover consists of three parts: the bottom, the cover and the spine. The lid will have a layer of synthetic padding. The bottom and spine are like the rest of the parts with a layer of white paper. By the way, this is the only moment in the box where I first glue the paper to the cardboard, and only then the fabric. As for the cover, I lightly coat it with glue and apply it to the padding polyester. Glue is needed to prevent the padding polyester from fidgeting. I trim off the excess with a roller knife.

I want to decorate the lid with a pendant. To do this, you need to make a small slot in the lid. Along the long side we mark the middle. On the short side - 1cm from the edge. We make a small slot, insert a ribbon there and glue the tails to the cover. Of course, it’s more convenient to do it before gluing the padding polyester, but this thought came to me while I was walking. Why through a slot? It's more reliable. The habit of tying on notebooks, I do the same there. We will make sure that the slot for the ribbon is located flush against the edge of the endpaper. The cut will not be visible, and you can even lift the box by the pendant, but nothing will be done to it.

For the cover, cut out the fabric with 2 cm allowances on each side.Place all three parts on the fabric, leaving a distance of 3-4 mm between them. We immediately glue the flat parts, and temporarily attach the part with padding polyester to the spine with pieces of masking tape to prevent it from fidgeting. And glue the allowances along the long edge.

We make a cut for the pendant, try it on, but don’t glue it yet. Let's glue it after we form the corners.

How to make corners with minimal thickening? At the moment this is how I do it. I trim the fabric along the cardboard, not reaching the corner 2 mm. From this point I cut perpendicular to the cardboard. Next, I fold the fabric so that its cut is parallel to the cardboard and lags behind it by 2 mm, which is equal to the thickness of the cardboard. In this case, we have a small fold. Let's cut it off. We get a broken line, which first continues the line of the cardboard, then goes at an angle of 45 degrees. When you fold this structure onto the cardboard, you will see how neatly it fits there.

After we have formed all four corners, glue the allowances on the short sides.

Now is the time to glue the stopper tapes. Thanks to them, the hinge will last much longer. And it’s more convenient to use a lid with stoppers.

We cut two ribbons 14 cm long and glue them symmetrically at an angle to the cover. They should be free at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. The rest is glued.

Now let's make the endpaper. To do this, cut out a piece from paper that is 2 cm shorter in length than the cover and 1 cm narrower in width. On three sides the allowance is 1.5 cm, on the fourth - 3 cm. This long allowance will then be hidden between the spine and the back wall.

We form the corners on the paper parts as follows: from the long side we cut off the excess fabric flush with the edge of the paper part. On the short side we make a broken line, as in the photo below. We glue the long side first, then the short one. The photo below is from another detail, simply because the frame here is better.

Glue the resulting part onto the endpaper. It will turn out like this:

It's time to connect the main box of the box and the cover. To do this, coat the bottom with moment-crystal glue. We apply glue to the smaller part, i.e. on the bottom of the box, not on the lid. We do not reach the edge a little and carefully spread the glue so that it is distributed evenly. I smear it with my finger. This glue is then easily removed from the skin with a film.

Press the bottom of the box to the bottom of the lid. We align the back wall with the edge of the part; the three outer walls will have indentations of 7 mm. To make the parts stick better, I turn the resulting structure upside down and place a stack of heavy books on top. 20 minutes will be enough for her. The cardboard itself sticks together quickly, the main hitch is in the fabric allowances. You need to wait until it all sticks together and the bottom does not lag behind the box.

Then I glue the spine to the back wall. In the same way, you just won’t be able to crush it with books. I hold it with my hands.

After this, you can glue the free ends of the stopper tapes to the box using PVA. This must be done symmetrically on both sides.

We will cover the inner walls of the box. To do this, cut out two long rectangles. For a deep compartment, this rectangle will be 5.2 cm in height, for a shallow compartment - 2.3 cm.

Glue the paper parts to the fabric, cut them out, and glue the seam allowances. Leave the seam allowance free on one narrow edge.

Carefully glue the part into place. We start from the end where we have a free allowance. We glue the part in stages onto each of the 4 walls. Carefully iron the corners with a stack. If you don't iron it, there will be rounded holes in the corners inside the box.

We make the joint near the front wall. Why? He is least visible there. Although we did our best to make sure it fits together neatly, I prefer the look of a solid piece. When you use the box in the future, you will mainly see it from this angle, and we focus on it.

Note that after we covered the walls from the inside with fabric, it turns out that each corner is reinforced sevenfold(!): glue, tape on both sides, paper on both sides and fabric on both sides, and glue between all layers. This is what makes cardboard boxes completely indestructible :) I love them for this!

All that remains is to make the rollers for the rings. I make them from rolls of white felt. For our box you will need 6 pieces of felt 20 cm long and 5.5 cm wide. Roll them into loose rolls and seal them with instant glue. In the photo I have two-color rolls, because there wasn’t enough white felt :) Usually I have them completely white. We wrap the rolls on top with fabric. Before cutting the fabric, coat the cut areas with glue. Remember, we did this for the partition above. We glue the fabrics only at the bottom, where the joint is at the felt. There is no need to glue the entire area, otherwise the fabric will become stiff. And we need elastic, but soft rolls.

We lay the rolls tightly. The photo below shows how much wider our pads are than the box. Apply a narrow strip of PVA to each roll and glue it in place.

Ready! We are happy with the result and look at it from all sides :)

Ideas for creativity

First, let's figure out what it is. Cardboard art combines all the techniques of cardboard products. These include boxes, cabinets, glued together from cardboard, miniature boxes for storing small items, and you can also make beautiful boxes for sweets. To decorate cardboard, paper, fabric, and leather are used. For additional decoration, frames, lace, embroidery, flowers, and stickers are used. The cardboard technique is used for toys, packaging, and sculptures. Bookmarks, books, masks, postcards are not cardboard, although they are made of cardboard. So let's conduct a cardboard master class together!

To master this technique, you will need standard cartoning tools. First, prepare your workspace; a large table with free space will do. Prepare in advance knives, scissors, a variety of glue, cardboard, rough paper, rags for working with glue, rulers, pencils, brushes. All components are ready to get started.

Let's look at a cardboard master class: square box

And so, the main products made of cardboard are boxes. I present a master class on cardboard. In this article you will learn how to make a box for handicrafts; it can also be used to store various small items. You will need cardboard (the stronger the better), whatman paper or sheets for watercolors, cotton fabrics (for decorating the surface), PVA or moment glue, scissors, rulers and a brush for applying glue. For the bottom of the box, cut out a square measuring 15 cm by 15 cm, or you can make it any other size, depending on your preferences.

Immediately cut out 4 walls, if you took thick cardboard, then 2 walls should have a length less than the distance that the cardboard itself has (if the cardboard is 6mm, then 6mm shorter). Next, using glue, we secure the walls to the bottom. To prevent the box from falling apart in the future, we glue all the seams with masking tape, coated with PVA glue on the sticky side. From whatman paper we cut out a long piece equal to the width of the box; the length of the sheet should be equal to all the walls of the box in order to wrap our box around. Then carefully bend the part so that the lines are even and draw something sharp along them. Next, take the fabric and glue it to whatman paper using PVA, leaving 2 cm on all sides, gluing it carefully so that there are no bubbles. We fasten the part to the box, on one side, on the last wall we bend the fabric, you can glue it with a moment for strength. Turn the box upside down and put it in order. Glue the remaining fabric to the bottom, first the first two sides, then the rest. Then we turn it over and decorate the boxes up.

To neatly decorate the corners, we make cuts and attach them to the walls. Let's move on to the interior decoration. We cut out a similar part of the box to insert it inside, we use thinner cardboard, the height of the sides should be 3-4 mm higher, we glue it according to the principle of external finishing. We cut off the flap, attach it to this part, at the corners, in order to carefully glue the fabric, we cut the corners diagonally. We also make diagonal cuts at the fold points. We fasten the part so as not to stain everything around with glue, so that the part sticks well, use clamps. We proceed to the bottom of the box, cut out a suitable part from whatman paper, cut out the fabric for it, fasten it, cut off the corners of the flap completely diagonally, and glue it. Lubricate the part with glue and attach it to the bottom of the box. We move on to the bottom from the outside, making it according to the same principle as the inside. The box is ready. Let's move on to making the lid. Cut out a square equal to the outer bottom and four pieces for the sides. We attach the sides in the same way as we glued our box at the very beginning. We decorate the lid with fabric, the entire outer surface, sides and bottom. The box is ready.

I present another master class on how to make a cardboard style box. The round box is a little more complicated to make, but just as exciting. For this we need cardboard, 2mm thick, and a suitable jar to give it a rounded shape. We cut out a rectangular part, determine the size ourselves, depending on the size of the future box itself. Next, we wet the cardboard to give it flexibility, then bend it around the round container (jar), secure it with rubber bands or laces. After the cardboard dries, it takes on a round shape, remove it from the mold and glue the joints. Next, we move to the bottom, cut out a circle so that the diameter matches the sides. We attach the bottom to the walls, strengthen all the walls with paper tape. Next, cut a strip of fabric, slightly larger than the sides of the box. We glue the fabric around the walls to carefully attach the fabric to the bottom, we make cuts similar to trapezoids. To glue the fabric up, we simply make vertical cuts. We take fabric of a different color and decorate the insides of the box. We cover the round bottom and inner wall (made from whatman paper) with fabric. All parts are attached inside. We move on to the outer bottom, make a round blank, cover it with fabric and attach it to the bottom. We make the lid according to the same principle as the box itself, but the diameter of the workpiece should be 3-4mm larger. The round box is ready.