acrylic paints-metallic "antique gold" and "royal gold"

finishing coating.

Step 1

We cover the stand with a product that I call “2 in 1” on both sides with 1 layer.

Important:

After the primer paint has dried, sand it lightly with zero-grit sandpaper. For what? After painting, the product usually gets wet from the paint and dries, becoming slightly rough. We don't need this. That's why we skin.

Step 2

We make a motif from a napkin for both sides and glue it dry (everything about the napkin for you - video and text). How do we glue it? The motifs here are small, so we glue them with the most in a simple way"from the center to the edges." In addition, this napkin is excellent (it doesn’t leave nasty folds, it doesn’t tear): it lays flat. At the same time, we still remember:

Do not wet the brush too much or press on it when gluing motifs.

1 side

2nd side

Step 3

Making a stand haze along the contour

Making the outline of decoupage work

video "Decoupage: how to beautifully design your work"

Step 4

Cover it matte acrylic varnish.

If you are going to use the stand, as they say, “to the fullest,” then it is better to cover it with yacht varnish in 2-3 layers. Please note that it gives a yellowish tint, which means this thing will stand out somewhat if you plan to have it in a set with other things.

I myself covered the stand with acrylic varnish in 5 layers. Intended to serve as a cup stand.

We wait for everything to dry, tie a bow pendant and leave it to dry.Enjoy your tea!

Many people have probably noticed that when you accidentally place a hot cup on varnished or polished furniture, it often leaves behind unpleasant marks that can permanently ruin the appearance furniture. To prevent this from happening, you need to use special hot pads. Nowadays you can find stands of all shapes and sizes on sale, but it’s much nicer to make this simple thing with your own hands. And for this, an unnecessary CD is the best choice. A little desire, free time and imagination and you will have an original cup stand. Now drinking tea every day at home or at work will become much more enjoyable for you. Don't believe me? I suggest you try...

To work we will need:

CD disk;
- PVA glue;
- Glue - pencil;
- Napkins with a pattern;
- Stationery file;
- Acrylic paints;
- Brushes;
- Acrylic varnish;
- Acrylic putty;
- Spatula;
- Foam sponges;
- Zero-grit sandpaper.

How to make a cup coaster from a CD

We will make a stand for the cup from an old CD. We will process the disk on both sides; on one and the other side we will get a colored drawing made using the decoupage technique.

First of all, we need to close the hole in the disk. To do this, we cut out 2 small circles from plain paper.


and glue them to the hole area on one side and the other.




Now we take acrylic putty and, using a small spatula, apply a thin layer of it to the entire surface of the disk.


We wait for it to dry completely on one side and do the same on the other side.

While the putty is drying, we don’t waste time and prepare drawings from napkins that we plan to paste onto the disc. We tear out or cut out the motifs we like from the napkins,

iron them with a warm iron,


We separate the two white layers of the napkin, leaving only the colored layer, which we will work with in the future.


While we were working with the napkin motifs, the putty on the disc was completely dry. Gently sand uneven areas with sandpaper


and wipe with a damp cloth so that no grains of dust remain.

We treat both surfaces of the disk with PVA glue.




When the glue is completely dry, prime the disc with white acrylic paint and also let it dry completely.


Place the prepared napkin design on a small stationery file and moisten it generously with water.


Carefully drain the excess water and place the drawing along with the file on the disk,


smooth the file with your fingers and remove it.


In a separate container, dilute PVA glue in half with water and apply a fan brush to the design, moving from the center of the disk to the edges.


We try to work so that no folds or air bubbles form under the pattern.

We wait for the disc to dry completely. To speed up the drying process, you can use a hair dryer.

Dry the protruding edges of the napkin thoroughly and carefully sand it with sandpaper.


Cover the surface of the disc with acrylic varnish in one layer.


After the varnish has completely dried, we paint some fragments of the picture with acrylic paints.


We go along the edges of the disk with a sponge with brown paint applied to it.


When the paint has dried, cover the disc with several layers of acrylic varnish, apply about 4-6 layers, dry each layer thoroughly.


Here we have such a cute stand.

Of course, you shouldn’t put a hot saucepan on it, but a cup of tea or coffee – please, the most important thing is that the furniture will not be damaged by the hot cup. Have fun and productive creativity!

Elena Zaporozhskaya (bora-bora), especially for the Taganrozhenka website - taganrozhenka.ru

Sometimes we throw old, unnecessary things into the trash, without even thinking that they can still serve us. For example, at my house a bamboo Chinese fruit bowl broke and was destined to end up in the trash container.

But my hands were itching to transform the fragments of the vase. This is what came out of it. I broke off the necessary fragment from the broken corrugated bowl of the vase - the result was a figure reminiscent of an apple or apricot when cut.

I applied the resulting figure to very thick cardboard and made a “pattern” - I simply outlined it with a pencil. I generously coated the inside of the resulting figure with Dragon glue.

I placed the bamboo part tightly against the cardboard and placed heavy objects on top so that it would stick well.

A few hours later, when the glue had dried well, I trimmed off the excess cardboard with a utility knife.

I primed the cardboard with thick white acrylic paint. I applied the paint with a foam sponge (you can use a regular kitchen sponge).

The result was a base for decoupage, primed with white. While this paint was drying, a decoupage card was selected. Since the blank turned out to look like a fruit, the image of branches with apricots was an ideal solution for decoupage.

Despite the fact that a decoupage card on thin paper was used, I did not cut out the motif with scissors, but tore it out with my hands almost along the contour.

When the acrylic had dried, I applied a fairly thick layer of PVA glue on top.

Literally for a minute I soaked the motif cut out from the card in a container of water to make the paper softer.

I laid out this drawing on a stationery file, with a drawing of my own, drained the excess water and blotted it back side paper towel.

She turned the file over and pressed the image firmly onto a flat surface. The fragment should stick to the glue. You should carefully smooth the top of the file with your hand to expel air bubbles and level the decoupage card.

After a couple of hours, the PVA glue dried and the moistened card stuck well to the base.

I cut off the excess edges of the paper and sanded along the contour.

I covered the decoupage with two layers of acrylic parquet varnish KOMPOZIT to protect the paper.

Since the decoupage card did not cover the entire primed surface, I needed to paint on the background so that it completely matches the background of the paper. First, I sanded the exact places where there was a transition from the glued card to the white background paint. With this I removed the varnish layer a little (so that the paint would adhere better when painting) and smoothed out the transition from the paper to the base.

I selected acrylic paint that matched the color of the decoupage card. The ivory color from DECO suited me. I sealed the white spaces with a small foam sponge in two layers.

After the paint had dried, I coated the decoupage with acrylic varnish to artwork(but you can also use parquet varnish).

Now I sanded the entire surface with decoupage to make it smooth.

I selected acrylic paints for aging with spray: peach, burnt umber, brown and olive and prepared an old toothbrush. All these colors go with color scheme glued pattern with apricot.

To spray, dilute the paint to a fairly liquid state. Dipping a toothbrush into paint, you can simply shake it onto the surface of the varnished decoupage.

I sprayed olive and brown paint first, then peach paint. You can brush the paint off the bristles with your finger.

After the droplets of multi-colored acrylic have dried, you must re-coat the decoupage with varnish.

To shade the edges of the resulting decoupage, I painted them with burnt umber, and used a foam sponge to “go” into the drawing a little to more clearly define the contours of the fruit shape. And coated it again with acrylic varnish.

Spraying creates the effect of a surface “beaten” by time.

Now the former old vase has turned into a beautiful antique panel for the kitchen. It can also be used as a stand kitchen utensils. If the pan is hot, place it on a bamboo surface.

Non-hot objects can also be placed on the front side.

Greetings, dear visitor to the “Women’s Hobby” blog!

Original coasters for hot dishes using the decoupage technique will not only decorate any kitchen, but can also be for a real housewife. They are very convenient if you need to put a mug of fiery coffee, a kettle or tureen on the table without spoiling or dirtying it. You can of course buy a stand. There is a huge selection of them in stores. But it’s much more interesting to make a hot stand with your own hands. Then you can become the owner of not only a functional item, but also a stylish, unique decoration for the kitchen.

If you are just starting to get acquainted with the decoupage technique, then an article about the basics of this wonderful technique will probably interest you -.

For decoupage, you can use special blanks made of plywood or wood. Or you can show a little imagination and give a second life to old and no longer needed things. For example, many craftswomen make coasters from CDs. I came up with the idea of ​​making a stand from ceramic tiles left over after the renovation.

I note that there are several important points, which need to be taken into account when decorating a hot stand. Firstly, they are designed for constant contact with hot objects, so the top coating must be heat-resistant. As such a coating, you can use glassy varnish, yacht (deck) varnish, Tsapon varnish or aerosol heat-resistant varnish.

Secondly, hot pads, like other kitchen utensils, often get dirty, so they should be easy to wash and not get damaged.

Third, the underside of a ceramic tile stand can scratch the table, so you need to glue some kind of backing to it. This could be cork (a piece of cork flooring) or some other soft, but not wet material (for example, the kind that is placed in boxes with dishes or electronic gadgets to prevent them from breaking).

How to decoupage hot coasters

So, in order to make decoupage of a hot stand we will need the following:

Materials

• Ceramic tiles
• Backing for gluing to the bottom (I used the porous material that was in the box with the tablet I was recently given as a gift)
• Glue Moment Crystal
• Vodka, alcohol or acetone
• Acrylic primer white
• Decoupage card
• White acrylic paint (construction)
• PVA glue
• Molar tape
• Artistic acrylic paints for painting (bronze, brown, yellow, pink, green)
• Acrylic varnish (construction)
• Hobby two-step craquelure varnish
• Metallized paste for grouting cracks (bronze)
• Heat-resistant aerosol varnish KUDO (sold in construction and hardware stores)

Tools

• Cotton pads
• Foam sponges
• Sandpaper No. 1
• Flat wide brush for glue and varnish
• Thin brush for painting (No. 3 or No. 1)
• Small scissors
• Stationery knife

Stages of work

1. Wash the ceramic tiles with dishwashing detergent, wipe them dry and let them air dry for a while.
2. On reverse side Apply Moment Crystal glue thickly to the tiles and glue the backing, pressing it firmly to the tile. It’s better to put something heavy on top as a press (I put 5 thick books) and leave it to dry for 10-12 hours.
3. When the glue has dried, use a utility knife to cut the soft backing to the size of the tile. And after that, wipe the ceramic tiles with a cotton pad soaked in vodka.
4. We seal the back side of our future stand under the bittersweet with masking tape so that it does not get dirty with paint. Now you can start decorating.
5. Using a foam sponge, cover our workpiece with acrylic primer in one layer and let it dry thoroughly (about 2-3 hours).
6. Using sandpaper, sand the dried primer layer well and apply white acrylic paint with a sponge. The paint needs to be dried and sanded again. The result should be a smooth white surface.
7. Now you need to prepare the decoupage card for gluing. First, cut out the desired motif from a large decoupage card. My card was quite dense, and I decided to thin it out. To do this, I glued overlapping strips of masking tape to the back of the picture cut out from a decoupage card and carefully smoothed them with my fingers so that they would stick properly. Then I carefully removed the tape, starting from the corner of the motif. Along with the tape, the extra layers of paper were also removed.
8. Next, soak the decoupage card in warm water for a few minutes (3-5 minutes is enough). Dilute PVA glue with water (approximately 1:1). We coat the back side of the picture with this glue and immediately glue it to our hot stand. We also coat the glued picture on top with glue from the center to the edges. It is important to smooth the decoupage card well and release every single air bubble from under it, and also to glue the edges of the design well.
9. When the glue has dried, cover the image with acrylic varnish and also let it dry.
10. When I thinned the decoupage card, one corner of the design was slightly damaged. Therefore, I finished painting this place with artistic acrylic paints, choosing colors close to the picture.
11. After all the painted areas have dried, cover the stand with two layers of acrylic varnish, allowing each layer to dry for about 1 hour. In this case, apply one layer of varnish with a brush along the pattern, and the other across it.
12. Using a wide flat brush, apply the 1st step of the craquelure composition. We make all strokes in one direction, generously wetting the brush in craquelure varnish. We go over the same place with a brush only once. We leave our work to dry for 3-4 hours. Even after drying, this varnish should remain tacky.
13. Apply craquelure step 2. Do this with the same brush in the same direction as step 1. It is also impossible to pass the brush over the same place twice. After covering with craquelure, leave the stand for 2-3 hours to dry.
14. Next, put a metallic paste on a sponge or cotton pad and rub it into the surface of the hot plate. After this, we immediately go to the bathroom and wash off the top layer of varnish with a sponge under running warm water. Just don’t keep the work under water for a long time, otherwise it will deteriorate. After washing off, beautiful thin cracks appear on the stand. Leave the stand for about half an hour so that the surface is completely dry.
15. We paint the sides of the stand with bronze paint.
16. Our hot stand is almost ready. We cover it with 6 layers of acrylic varnish with intermediate drying of the layers for about 1 hour. We apply the varnish in a horizontal direction, then in a vertical direction alternately. After applying the last layer of acrylic varnish, you need to leave it to dry for 12 hours to ensure the coating becomes durable.
17. We apply the finishing coat - heat-resistant aerosol varnish in 2 layers with intermediate drying for about 30 minutes. This varnish has an unpleasant, pungent odor, so it is better to work with it on the balcony or outside. Final drying time is 3 hours.

But in order for the smell of the varnish to disappear, it is better to leave the work for another day.

Sometimes we throw old, unnecessary things into the trash, without even thinking that they can still serve us. For example, at my house a bamboo Chinese fruit bowl broke and was destined to end up in the trash container.

But my hands were itching to transform the fragments of the vase. This is what came out of it. I broke off the necessary fragment from the broken corrugated bowl of the vase - the result was a figure reminiscent of an apple or apricot when cut.

I applied the resulting figure to very thick cardboard and made a “pattern” - I simply outlined it with a pencil. I generously coated the inside of the resulting figure with Dragon glue.

I placed the bamboo part tightly against the cardboard and placed heavy objects on top so that it would stick well.

A few hours later, when the glue had dried well, I trimmed off the excess cardboard with a utility knife.

I primed the cardboard with thick white acrylic paint. I applied the paint with a foam sponge (you can use a regular kitchen sponge).

The result was a base for decoupage, primed with white. While this paint was drying, a decoupage card was selected. Since the workpiece turned out to look like a fruit, the image of branches with apricots was an ideal solution for.

Despite the fact that a decoupage card on thin paper was used, I did not cut out the motif with scissors, but tore it out with my hands almost along the contour.

When the acrylic had dried, I coated the top with a fairly thick layer of PVA glue.

Literally for a minute I soaked the motif cut out from the card in a container of water to make the paper softer.

I laid out this drawing on a stationery file, with a drawing of my own, drained off the excess water and blotted the back of the paper with a towel.

She turned the file over and pressed the image firmly onto a flat surface. The fragment should stick to the glue. You should carefully smooth the top of the file with your hand to expel air bubbles and level the decoupage card.

After a couple of hours, the PVA glue dried and the moistened card stuck well to the base.

I cut off the excess edges of the paper and sanded along the contour.

I covered the decoupage with two layers of KOMPOZIT parquet varnish to protect the paper.

Since the decoupage card did not cover the entire primed surface, I needed to paint on the background so that it completely matches the background of the paper. First, I sanded the exact places where there was a transition from the glued card to the white background paint. With this I removed the varnish layer a little (so that the paint would adhere better when painting) and smoothed out the transition from the paper to the base.

I selected acrylic paint that matched the color of the decoupage card. The ivory color from DECO suited me. I sealed the white spaces with a small foam sponge in two layers.

After the paint had dried, I coated the decoupage with acrylic art varnish (but you can also use parquet varnish).

Now I sanded the entire surface with decoupage to make it smooth.

I selected acrylic paints for aging with spray: peach, burnt umber, brown and olive and prepared an old toothbrush. All these colors are combined with the color scheme of the glued apricot pattern.

To spray, dilute the paint to a fairly liquid state. Dipping a toothbrush into paint, you can simply shake it onto the surface of the varnished decoupage.

I sprayed olive and brown paint first, then peach paint. You can brush the paint off the bristles with your finger.

After the droplets of multi-colored acrylic have dried, you must re-coat the decoupage with varnish.

To shade the edges of the resulting decoupage, I painted them with burnt umber, and used a foam sponge to “go” into the drawing a little to more clearly define the contours of the fruit shape. And coated it again with acrylic varnish.

Spraying creates the effect of a surface “beaten” by time.

Now the former old vase has turned into a beautiful antique panel for the kitchen. It can also be used as a stand for kitchen utensils. If the pan is hot, place it on a bamboo surface.

Non-hot objects can also be placed on the front side.

Elena Zaporozhskaya (bora-bora), especially for the Taganrozhenka website - website