Frills or ruffles are gathered material, sometimes formed into flounces, voluminous or asymmetrical folds. They can be made from the main material (one-piece) or sewn on top of it - to the hem of a dress, on a blouse or skirt.

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Ruffles on a dress always look very feminine and gentle. They balance the figure if placed in the right places. Usually flounces, folds and other drapery add volume, so the presence of such details on dresses will be especially beneficial for girls with an asthenic body type. Ruffles can easily balance this type of figure, give it elegance and enhance its shape.

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Due to the versatility of products with drapery, many seamstresses think about how to sew a frill to a dress correctly so that the item looks like it was made by a pro. This is not so difficult if you take the advice of experienced craftsmen and postpone sewing thin and slippery fabrics until more “experienced” times.

Types of frills

Depending on the idea and style of the product, it is necessary to select correct option formation of drapery.

• Wash and iron the fabric to create a frill so that it does not warp the finished product in the future.
• To ensure that the frill does not have small folds at the seam line, you need to follow two tips. First, do not make a seam allowance at the edge of the frill larger than 0.5 cm. Second, before stitching, create small cuts at a distance of 1-2 cm from each other along the entire length of the fragment. This technique will allow the drapery to precisely meet the sewing edge. The machine stitch will be placed on a smooth fabric and will not cause pinching or distortion anywhere.
• Folds and ruffles are best finished with a hem stitch. It is acceptable to use an overlocker with dense fabrics, as well as the use of bias tape.
• It is better to join the frill and the base with a hand-winding stitch, rather than with pins, so that the fabric does not slip.
• There are also often problems with calculating the required amount of fabric for the frill, especially if the folds are planned to be large. In fact, calculating the required number is not so difficult. To begin, lay the dress on the floor and measure the bottom line. Multiply this number by two. Then add 2-3 cm to the seams on each side. For example, when measuring the hem of a dress at 50 cm, you will need a piece of fabric 103 cm long for the frill (50x2+3=103). If you are creating a larger element, you will have to take triple the length at the bottom of the dress. The principle also applies to armholes, necklines and any frills formed along the top.

Sewing frills

In the process of creating a loose dress, sewing a frill along the bottom is quite easy. It does not require too many folds and is formed from the same material.

Work progress

1. When you have already stitched all the fragments of the base and cut out the desired element, gather the fabric along the stitching line. This can be done by hand using a straight stitch and then simply pulling the thread.
2. Attach this fragment to the base with the right side inward and sew with a machine.
3. Straighten the frill and remove excess threads. Press folds if necessary.

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This method is convenient for models with a small single-layer frill. It diversifies the style and makes the product longer.

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To sew a frill along the neckline and shoulder seams you will need:

• finished dress or its front part;
• fabric for frill in tone or contrast;
• sewing machine;
• twine;
• ruler;
• scissors;
• French pins.

Work progress

1. Take a piece of string and measure the arc of the neckline. Place the string on a ruler to find out the exact size. Double this figure and cut out two pieces for the frill according to the measurements. The top layer of the frill should be 1.5-2 times smaller than the bottom. Don't forget about 0.5 cm seam allowance as well.
2. Press seam allowances on three sides wrong side and stitch them. Use a French pin to join the corners.
3. Sew the open edge of the wider piece with a stretch stitch to create pleats. Mark the middle and fix the frill to the base in three places: the right and left edges, as well as the center. For a tighter fit, use more pins.
4. Sew this piece to the base using a straight machine stitch.
5. Repeat these steps for the second, narrower piece. Place it on top and machine stitch it too. You can fix both fragments at once and stitch at the same time, especially if your equipment has a stitch mode for thick fabrics and increases the stitch length.
6. You can leave the frill as is and simply finish the edge with an overlocker. Or sew the lining on the bottom and fold the excess edge into it.
7. Iron the frill and remove excess threads.

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As a result, you will have a beautiful two-layer frill along the top of the dress, which acts as a decorative element and refreshes the style. This technique can also be used to create pleats on the sleeves and along the bottom of the dress.

Frill cut from the main or finishing fabric at an angle of 45° to the warp threads (less often - in the longitudinal or transverse direction) with a width of 1.5 to 30 cm, depending on the model. The length of the frill is 2-4 times longer than the line of its stitching.

Shuttlecocks They differ from frills in that they are much wider and are cut out mainly in a circle. The smaller the inner cutout of the circle, the larger the tail is formed. The length of the flounce along the inner line should be equal to the length of the line of its stitching or greater. The offcuts of these types of finishes are processed in various ways depending on the model and fabric: hem seam with a closed cut, double hem seam, piping (roll), lace, etc.

To form gathers on the finishing parts using a machine, you should increase the length of the machine stitches and loosen the tension of the top thread so that the bottom thread is easily pulled out of the fabric (wind a thicker thread onto the bobbin). On the front side of the part, lay two parallel lines: above the stitching line and below it. The distance between the lines is 0.4-0.6 cm. Fasten the ends of the threads (top and bottom) to the left edge of the part, and pull the ends of the threads from the right edge until the cut of the frill or flounce is equal to the length of the stitching line. Distribute the resulting assemblies evenly along the entire length of the part or along the model.

To assemble manually, lay two parallel lines with a minimum stitch length above and below the line where the frill joins the product, grabbing the same threads of the fabric. Pull it together with threads to the required length and secure the ends of the threads. Having distributed the gathers, sew the frill to the product or main part. After stitching, remove the auxiliary stitches.

The assemblies can be made straight (Figure 14a) or scalloped (Figure 14b).

Frills and flounces can be stitched (Figure 14c), stitched (Figure 14d) and sewn between two parts or into a fold allowance (Figure 14e). In order to stitch a frill, mark a stitching line on the front side of the main part, apply the frill with the front side inward (in the opposite direction from its location in the finished product), baste and stitch, distributing the gathers. Then fold the frill down and iron the seam.

Quilling(Figure 14f) differs from frill in that it processes not one, but both cuts. Ruffles can be simple or shaped. Ruffle sections are processed in the same ways as frill sections. For a simple ruffle, cut a strip of fabric at an angle of 45° to the warp threads or along a transverse thread 3.5-4 cm wide and one and a half times the length of the stitching line. After processing the ruffle sections, in the middle or closer to the edge, lay two parallel hand or machine lines with loosely tightened stitches. Pull the bottom threads of the stitches and distribute the resulting gathers along the entire length of the ruffle. Sew it onto the main part between parallel lines, which are then carefully removed.

Buffs

Unlike assemblies, buffs are made not along the edge of the part, but on the part itself. According to the method of execution, there are ordinary puffs, with a cord, and “waffle” puffs.

Ordinary hand puffs (Figure 15a) are made from the wrong side along the folds of the fabric with stitches over the edge with an interval of 0.5-0.7 cm between them using thread numbers 10, 20. Machine puffs (Figure 15b) are made along the marked lines on the front side of the part with using a special shirring foot or slightly loosening the upper thread tension. Gather the fabric by pulling the threads and distribute the resulting gathers evenly over the entire area of ​​the part. Fasten the ends of the threads. Sew a lining from the main fabric on the wrong side. Do not iron the puffs.

For a puff with a cord (Figure 15c), stitch the piece from the front side along the marked lines, placing strips of fabric underneath, then pull the cord in, gather the fabric into gathers, and secure the ends of the cord.

For “waffle” puffs (Figure 16a), on the front side of the part, apply vertical and horizontal lines at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from one another or just mark the points of their intersection (Figure 16b). Puffs are made on yokes, cuffs, etc. Their shape can be very diverse.

Fasten the end of the silk thread from the wrong side, bring the needle to the front side, grab the fabric at two parallel points of intersection of the lines and fasten the thread with two or three stitches back to the needle, then, without breaking the thread or tightening it, bring the needle to the wrong side near the fastening, and then to the front one at the point of the next parallel row, again fasten the two points, doing the fastening in a checkerboard pattern, etc.

"Waffle" buffets can be made in another way. From the wrong side, sew stitches, catching the fabric at the points of intersection of the lines (Figure 16c). Then tighten the threads until an “accordion” is formed (Figure 16d). Fasten every two folds on the front side in a checkerboard pattern with two or three stitches across the edge using a thin silk thread to match the main fabric, bring the end of the thread to the wrong side and secure with a knot. Do not iron the “waffles”. To protect the “waffle” puffs from stretching and deformation, sew a lining of thin cotton fabric on the wrong side of the part.

Puffs can be replaced with tucks. Calculate their width and the distance between them so that the finished stitched part corresponds to a similar pattern part (yoke, cuff).

Undercuts

Undercuts are a type of dart and at the same time an element of finishing. In cutting, one of the hem cuts is longer than the other, i.e. has an allowance for gathering or folds (pintucks). The sides of the undercut are connected with a stitch or adjustment seam.

Gather the cut side of the undercut with an allowance. After the assembly is formed, the sides of the cut should be equal in length. Fold the part along the hem with the front side inward, aligning the snares and control marks or cuts, sweep and stitch from the assembly side, distributing it across the model. The seam width is 0.7-1 cm. Minimize the stitching seam, ending the stitching 1-1.5 cm further than the end of the undercut. Remove the running stitches, overcast the seam and iron it towards the part without gathering.

When making an adjustment stitch, the width of the joint seam may be less than the width of the finishing stitch, resulting in the undercut seam not falling under the adjustment stitch. To prevent this from happening, a strip cut from the main fabric should be placed under the gathered part on the wrong side, and then a finishing stitch should be placed on the front side

To give your clothes originality and unique charm, get creative with the finishing. It may be a thin handmade or be simpler to implement. In any case different types finishings will make your outfit unique.

Frill- these are rectangular strips of fabric on which the assembly is performed. Shuttlecocks Unlike frills, they are cut out in the shape of a circle.

Frill

Frills can be stitched and topstitched. To get a frill of the desired length, you almost always cut out several strips of fabric and then stitch them into one piece. When cutting, make sure that all strips for frills are cut with the same direction of the grain thread or pattern, and that for strips of checkered or striped fabric, the bottom cuts coincide with the same checks or stripes.

SIMPLE FRILL

Such a frill is stitched to the bottom cut or, if it is cleanly turned (for example, a neckline or collar cut), it is stitched between the parts.

Fold the bottom edge of the frill and stitch it to the edge or perform a roll hem. Gather the top edge of the frill. To do this, sew two lines with large stitches. To distribute the folds on the frill evenly, measure 4-8 pieces of the same length on it and put marks on it. Also divide the section to which the frill will be sewn into the appropriate number of equal sections and place marks.

Pin the frill to the cut, right side to right side, aligning the cut marks (1). Hold the bottom stitch threads firmly and pull the frill over them to the desired length. Distribute the gathers evenly (2).

IMPORTANT: in areas of curves and corners, the frill must be tightened more tightly so that its outer edge is wide enough (3). The frill is stitched to the bottom edge of the skirt or sleeve between the gathering lines. Take the seam allowances together and overcast them, iron them onto the skirt or sleeve and topstitch on the right side. If the frill is stitched between pieces, baste it between the gathering lines.

Ruffle is a type of frill. It's always being adjusted. On the ruffle sections, make a narrow hem or a roll hem. To gather, place two lines along one edge of the ruffle using large stitches at a pinhead distance. Hold the bottom threads of the stitches firmly and pull the ruffle on them to the desired length. Distribute the assemblies evenly.

Pin the ruffle to the product with the wrong side to the right side so that the marked seam line is between the gather threads (4). Sew the ruffle on the product between them. Remove the gather threads.

Frills of the Bavarian national women's dress

The national clothing of the inhabitants of the Alpine region is decorated with many decorative elements in the Bavarian style, made of braid, satin and velvet ribbons, or made independently from double ribbons and sewn by hand.

To make your own Bavarian frill, you will need a strip of fabric equal to twice the width of the frill plus a seam allowance. The length of the strip depends on the type of frill. Fold the strip of fabric in half lengthwise with the right side facing inward and stitch the longitudinal sections to the width of the seam allowance. Turn the strip over and iron it so that the seam lies in the middle.

HEART FRILL

To make the “hearts” (5), you will need a double ribbon 1.5 times longer than the finished frill. Place dot marks on the back of the tape alternately - either at the edges or in the center of the tape. Distance between points = half the width of the tape.

First, make a small back stitch at a point in the middle of the tape, then insert a needle into two points lying on opposite edges of the tape and pull the thread tight. Sew all three points with a few stitches of a backstitch seam. At the next point along the middle line of the ribbon, again make a small backstitch stitch, but now do not pull the thread. Insert a needle into two points lying on opposite edges of the tape - etc. (5a).

ZIGZAG FRILL

For such a frill you will need a soft ribbon, braid or ribbon sewn from a strip of fabric cut on the bias. The length of the frill tape is three times the length of the finished frill. Along the tape, use a double thread to lay zigzags in small “forward needle” stitches, running from one edge to the other. Pull the ribbon onto a thread, distribute the gathers evenly (6).

FRILL IN THE FORM OF ROSETS

This frill is made only from double-faced or double tape. The length of the frill tape is three times the length of the finished frill. Place bow folds on the ribbon. Fold depth = twice the width of the tape. Sew the folds along the middle line of the ribbon. Sew the folds lying on top with several stitches along the middle line (7).

Shuttlecocks

If you want to decorate your product with a flounce, you can make the pattern yourself. To do this, measure the length of the cut on the product to which the shuttlecock will be sewn. This length corresponds to the length of the inner circle. The radius of the inner circle is equal to the length of the circle divided by 6.28. Draw the inner circle of the shuttlecock with this radius and its outer circle with a double radius (8).

If the cut of the shuttlecock stitching turns out to be too long, draw a shuttlecock with a smaller radius of the inner circle and cut out several shuttlecocks along it.

The shuttlecock is ground along the inner edge of the circle. The smaller the diameter of the inner circle, the more magnificent the shuttlecock lies. If the shuttlecock tapers towards one end, its inner cut is cut out in the shape of a spiral (9).

IMPORTANT: along the cut of the flounce, a seam allowance of no more than 1 cm is given. With a wider seam allowance, the flounce forms folds during the sewing process. If the shuttlecock consists of several circles, they need to be cut out with the same direction of the grain thread and stitched along the edges of the cuts (10).

Along the outer cut of the flounce, perform a roll hem by hand or a hem using a sewing machine.

If you need to trim the lower section of a skirt or sleeve with a flounce, then stitch it right side to front side, and cut the allowance along the cut of the flounce in several places. Take the seam allowances together and overcast them, iron them onto the skirt or sleeve and topstitch on the right side.

If the flounces are located one on top of the other (for example, on a sleeve), overcast the seam edge of each flounce. Sew the flounces right side to right side, notching the seam allowances in several places. Iron the flounces down (11).

The flounces at the neckline or armholes are sharpened during the processing of their cuts. To do this, baste the flounces to the sections of the armholes or neckline with the wrong side facing the front side.

For the hardworking - a bright light burns through life, for the lazy - a dim candle

We sew flounces. Lesson 5 - ruffles and frills.

Good afternoon, today we will take a little break from lessons on modeling shuttlecocks. In this article I will tell and show everything I know about ruffles and frills, how they are designed and how they are sewn on. We have already sewn something with ruffles - remember these

Let me first tell you what ruffles are, then I’ll show you in photographs beautiful models clothes for children and adults decorated with ruffles. And then we will start sewing and sewing on the ruffles and frills. And after this article you will be able to sew one like this. Or topic with

So, this is what ruffles look like(photo below): this is a strip of fabric gathered along the middle seam. That is, the assembly seam runs in the middle. The ruffle is also attached to the product with a middle seam. Beautiful dress You and I will need to sew it together.

This is what frills look like (photo below) - these are strips of fabric, gathered only on one side, and on the same side they are sewn to the product. The strip of fabric for the frill (and for the ruffle too) should be at least 1.5 times longer than the finished frill (but we will dwell in more detail on the proportions and lengths).

Now let's take a little look at the models of clothes decorated with ruffles and fill ourselves with ideas for yours. future clothes hand-sewn.

Let's start with children's dresses and tunics:

Thanks to the ruffles, the simplest cut children's dress can become simply VERY elegant.

Ruffles on clothes for newborns look very touching.

Pink frills on pink dresses for pink girls– this is the very embodiment of tenderness.

And here is an example of ruffle on elegant dresses for girls. They can be used to decorate straps. Lush tulle ruffles can be placed along the edge of the neckline and even decorated with fabric roses.

Ruffles can also be sewn in frequent rows over the entire surface of the dress. By the way, in fabric stores you can find fabric with strips of ruffles and frills already sewn onto it.

Ruffles also look good on older girls. Only the color of the fabric for models with ruffles is better to choose a calmer one - gray, black, brown, white.

Well, now let's figure out how to properly sew and attach ruffles and frills.

WE MAKE RUCHES AND FRILLS.

How long should the strip be for ruffles and frills?

That is, to find out how long to cut a strip of fabric for a ruffle, we need to measure the length of the line to which the ruffle will be sewn. We take a centimeter and measure it directly on the product. And then we multiply the resulting figure by 1.5 (or simply add another half of this number to the number). For example, our ruffle sewing line is 80 cm, which means the ruffle strip should be equal to 80 + 40 (half of eighty) = 120 cm.

Strips of fabric for ruffles and frills are cut in a straight line.

We cut out a strip for the ruffle 120 cm long, and then gather it until it is equal to 80 cm - i.e. The length of the finished, already assembled ruffle should coincide with the length of its sewing line.

But you also need to know that the thinner and softer the fabric, the tighter the gathering on the ruffle should be so that it holds its shape. This means that the longer the strip of fabric for such a ruffle should be. It turns out that if we make ruffles from soft fabric, you need to multiply the length of the sewing line not 1.5 times, but 2 times or maybe more. I always cut off a strip with a margin, then when you start assembling, as you go, it becomes clear what density of assembly looks better.

And if we plan to make a pleated frill, then the strip of fabric should be 3 times longer than the sewing line of the frill.

Should the edges of the ruffle be processed?

First, immediately decide whether you will process the edges of our ruffle - if the fabric does not fray, then the edges can be left as is - knit ruffles are usually left simply unprocessed, thin satin and chintz, shiny satin, silk, organza are better treated. But it all depends on the model you are sewing. I’ll tell you more, even if the fabric frays, you can also leave it as is (nowadays such shaggy ruffles are often found on blouses and tops - it’s fashionable) if from time to time there are extra shaggy hairs that appear along the edge of the ruffle, I simply cut them off with scissors I continue to use the clothes. To reduce the flowability of such fabrics, the cut of the strips of fabric can be done with zigzag scissors or cut not in a straight line, but on an oblique.

Just pay attention in stores to how the ruffles on the dresses, tops and tunics sold there are processed - you will discover a lot of new things. It turns out that many clothing manufacturers don’t bother processing cuts at all.

If you decide to process the ruffle cut.

The first method is a zigzag stitch.

We bend the cut to the wrong side by 5-7 mm and attach it to the wrong side with a zigzag seam (the width of the zigzag seam is 2-3 mm (but it’s okay if it’s different).

Method two - with a regular line

We bend the cut to the wrong side (the width of the bend is 3-5 mm). You can iron the bend comfortably. Then we put it under the machine’s foot, slowly, and sew with a regular stitch. We lay the line at a distance of 1-2 mm from the fold line. After this line, carefully trim the excess edge of the fold with scissors as close to the seam as possible. And again (the second time) we bend such a stitched edge to the wrong side by 2-3 mm and once again lay a line along this bend (directly along the first line). It turns out very neat and durable - for centuries.

How to make a gather on a ruffle

We take a strip of fabric, set the widest seam stitch on the machine (the larger the better), and use this wide stitch to sew a line evenly in the middle of the strip.

To ensure that the seam goes exactly in the middle of the ruffle, you can first fold the ruffle in half along its entire length and lightly smooth the fold line with an iron (like an arrow on trousers). Then we fold the strip back, and in the center we have a mark from the fold. And this fold line will be our visible guideline along which we will drive our line.

So we ran this very wide stitch line, took it out from under the machine, and cut the threads. And now, to get an assembly, all you need to do is simply pull the threads and the ruffle itself will begin to wrinkle evenly along its entire length. We need to tighten the threads until we get the length of the ruffle we need (that is, the length equal to the sewing line of the ruffle on the product).

To make the frill gather more evenly, it is sometimes recommended to make not one central seam, but two seams in the center, one next to the other. But I usually gather one central seam at a time. And I adjust the uniformity of the assembly manually.

How to make a gather on a frill.

Exactly the same as on the ruffle - only we lay a large stitch line not in the center of the strip, but along its edge.

How to sew ruffles to a product

I first sew the ruffles by hand using large rough stitches evenly to the planned sewing line, taking my time, constantly bending the edges of the ruffle and checking whether I have strayed from the intended line. If the line goes not along the edge of the product, but directly along the canvas, then first it is better to draw this very sewing line on the canvas with a pencil or chalk.

When the ruffles are sewn by hand, I put it all under the machine foot and stitch in the center, sewing the ruffle to the product. And then I pull out the rough thread (the one with which I basted the ruffle by hand).

How to sew a frill to a product

Happy sewing.

Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site "".

Hello, dear readers of the blog site!

Do you want to add femininity, romance, playfulness, and seductiveness to your skirts, dresses or blouses? Make them flounces, frills or ruffles. Just not on all of them, only on some. Don't let it be too much!

Flounces, frills or ruffles are made on models made of thin and medium soft fabrics, so when moving and from the slightest breath of breeze they sway in playful waves as if alive.

Very often, simple sewing lovers confuse flounces, frills, and ruffles with each other.

Frills can be located on products - horizontally, vertically, along yoke lines, along structural seams, etc.

2. The shape of the cut detail (see the cut section below in the article).

Cut the frills.

If necessary, you can cut out the frill yourself.

The cut out part of the frill can have the shape of a rectangle, triangle, trapezoid.

At the same time, short, transverse (1 or 2) and lower longitudinal sections of frills do not always have an even, straight cut line. It can also be curved, and in a wide variety of ways (depending on the desire of the “creator” of the frill and the characteristics of the model). For example, like this.

Most often, the frill pattern is laid out on the fabric along the bias thread, at an angle of 45⁰ to the warp thread, sometimes along the transverse thread.

Frill width.

The width of the frill depends on the style of the model and the properties of the fabric from which the frill is made and can be from 1.5 to 30 cm. To this you also need to add 1.5 - 2 cm for the seams along the upper and lower edges.

Frill length.

The length of the frill cut detail determines how the finished frill will look. The longer the cut detail of the frill, the more tightly gathered its upper cut will be, which means the frill will look more magnificent on the finished product.

For a not very fluffy frill, its upper cut should be 1.5 times longer than the stitching line.

For a normal, good fluffiness of the frill, the upper cut of the frill should be 2 times longer than the stitching line.

Well, for thin, easily draped fabrics, you can take three lengths of the stitching line.

Regardless of the length of the future detail of the frill cut, we add from 0.5 to 1.5 cm (depending on the properties of the fabric and the characteristics of the model) to the seam allowances on the side of each short, transverse section.

Of course, it’s best when the frill is one-piece. It looks better and there is less fuss with its processing. Therefore, when laying out the cut details, do not forget about frills, especially long and wide ones.

Well, when there is not enough fabric for one single piece of frill, you will have to make it up from several, separately cut.

A ready-made frill consisting of several individual parts, on some models it simply must look like a single whole. And then, the separately cut details of the frill, on some models (optional, depending on the situation) should be ideally combined with each other with patterns of cells, lines, directions of floral patterns, etc.

On other models, different directions of the pattern on several parts of one frill can become an additional decorative effect. In this case, you need to carefully monitor the symmetry of the arrangement of the pattern of such parts. For example, like this.

Don't forget about seam allowances on these pieces! They must be on the cutting details, but they do not participate in the matter of combining the pattern. Only the main part, without allowances, of the cut parts.

For frills that will be laid in pleats, pleats and corrugations, the pattern pieces are laid out along the grain or cross thread.

The length of the cutting details for frills that will be folded into pleats, pleats or corrugated folds depends on the type, and therefore the depth of the folds that will be made on the frill (needs to be calculated).

Sew the frill.

When a one-piece frill cut piece needs to be “turned” into a ring, short, cross-sections of one full-cut frill cut piece are joined with a ground stitch.

And when a whole, large frill needs to be made up of separately cut parts, the sections of these parts are also connected with a stitch seam.

Seam allowances for such joints are left from 0.5 to 0.7 cm, depending on the fraying of the sections.

And they are sewn together with a seam.

Of course, it will be best if the seam allowance cuts, no matter how many there are, are treated to prevent fraying. Frills are loose details, or almost free. Their movements are almost unrestricted, and it is not at all good if protruding threads are visible from under the flying frills and from the seams.

A high-quality product is considered to have a frill that is evenly gathered along its entire length. There are two ways to achieve this result.

First. Having gathered the top edge of the frill to the length of the stitching line, use your hands to evenly distribute the resulting folds.

And after that, using pins and a hand basting stitch, we begin to attach the top edge of the frill to the main product.

Second way. We lay stitch lines on both sides, along the upper edge of the frill, two hand stitches with straight stitches.

We pin the frill to the main part. First the edges, then the middle, then the middle of two sagging segments, again the middle, newly formed, but in four smaller segments, etc.

And when the frill is securely and evenly attached to the main part, all that remains is to pull the ends of the laid hand stitches and secure the assembly to the product with pins and a hand basting stitch.

This is the article I have today!

Good luck everyone! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!