It becomes cool and sleeping in warm flannel clothes is a hundred times more pleasant. I really love warm shirts, but I can’t sleep in them at all, because... in the morning it ends up on my neck, I think I’m not the only one, and in this article I want to invite you to build pajama pants pattern immediately on the fabric, which even a novice cutter can master. The pattern is universal, without side seams, it is suitable for men's lounge pants or sleep pants for a son or daughter.
Cotton flannel is suitable for these warm trousers. Our industry produces flannel mainly with a width of no more than 80 cm, so for them you need to take two lengths of trousers plus 15 cm for allowances, for ladies and men with a hip size of up to 110 cm, and if your size exceeds 110 hip girth, then I recommend making a pattern on paper, so to find out how much fabric is needed, you may have to buy three lengths and build trousers with a side seam.)
Taking measurements: Tie an elastic band around your waist and leave it until the measurements are taken. Remove the waist circumference. Hip circumference plus 10-18 cm (if you want to wear looser trousers, take a larger increase), I will indicate my measurements, and you substitute yours. It is better to use the help of your home to take measurements.
Standing to measure the length of the trousers from the elastic at the waist on the side to the desired point, mine will be up to the ankle. And from the elastic to the ankle in the front. You can measure both measurements to the floor and subtract the distance from the floor to the desired place on the ankle (mine is minus five).
The height of the knee is from the side of the elastic at the waist to the middle of the knee; usually, when measuring the length of the trousers, I immediately note the height of the knee. Knee circumference plus 10-20 cm. Bottom circumference plus 15-25 cm.
Seat height plus 3-5 cm (measured while sitting, on a hard chair on the side from the elastic at the waist to the surface of the chair, this increase is given for loose lounge trousers and sleep trousers, keep this in mind, you should not build trousers for going out using this guide, this is a topic other lessons).
And the last test measurement, the length of the saddle (taken while standing, the measurement starts in front on the waist elastic, the measuring tape is passed between the legs and ends at the midpoint on the back elastic plus 3-5 cm).
I will build based on my standards, and you can use yours.
My waist measurement is 74 cm.
Hips with an increase of 109 cm.
The length of the trousers at the side is 94 cm.
The front length of the trousers is 91 cm.
Knee height 54 cm.
Knee circumference with an increase of 47 cm.
Ankle circumference with an increase of 37 cm.
Seat height 29 cm.
Measurement “saddle” with an increase of 63 cm.
In total, for these trousers I will need a piece of fabric equal to two lengths plus 15 cm, a total of 203 cm, I will also need an elastic band 2.5-4 cm wide, equal to the waist length minus 5-10 cm.
Construction starts from the bottom. Use a square to straighten the cut. Place the fabric on a flat surface, a folding table or the floor. Attach the square with the short side to the edge and mark along the long side, continue marking using the length of the ruler, cut off the excess along the mark.
From the cut upward, set aside 3 cm for the bottom allowance and draw a line from edge to edge.
Place the measurement of the length of the trousers upwards from the shallow line; mine is 94 cm. Through this point, draw a horizontal line from hem to hem.
Divide the hip circumference with the allowance by 2. I have 54.5 cm.
To calculate the length of the wedges. We divide the resulting number 54.5 by the special coefficient 3.8. I got 14.3, I round up to 14 cm. I divide the resulting number 14 again, but by 3, and round up I get 5 cm, this is the wedge for the front half of the trousers, the remaining 14-5 = 9 cm is the wedge for the back half.
We continue building. From the top point downwards we measure the height of the seat with an allowance, mine is 29 cm and again we draw a horizontal line.
From the left edge to the right we set aside 2 cm for the allowance, point P and from this point to the right the length of the front wedge is 5 cm (point SP).
From the point SP vertically upwards, at the intersection with the horizontal point TP.
From the point SP to the right half the circumference of the hips with an allowance, I have 54.5 cm (point CC).
From point SS vertical upward, at the intersection with the horizontal point TC.
From the point CC to the right, the width of the rear wedge is 9 cm. If there is no longer room for the wedge, then you can cut out trousers with a cut-off wedge, I indicated an example with shading. Place a sheet of A4 below the seat line and secure with pins, further building the trousers on the fabric you will at the same time know what the wedge will be. After construction, you will apply it to the free remainder of the fabric, an example of a wedge cut is indicated as a red thick line and the same line is a grain of thread.
Divide the distance between the points SP and SS in half 27.2, round to 27, move to the left 2 cm, and draw a vertical through this point up and down. This is the side seam of the trousers, although we are not supposed to have a side seam, but it will be useful to us in the future.
Next, from the point TP to the right we will set aside 2 cm. From the point SP up on the vertical we will set aside a distance equal to the front wedge of 5 cm, connect points 2 and 5 with a straight line. On this straight line down from (.) 2, set aside the difference between measuring the length of the trousers from the front and from the side. My trousers are 3 cm shorter in front, set aside 3 cm, mark as (.)3. Make a conjugation or manually connect the points of the front wedge, P and 5.
From point TC to the left 3 cm. From point SS up, set aside the width of the rear wedge 9 cm. Connect points 9 and 3, this is a temporary line. Pair (..) 9 and C or connect by hand with a smooth line.
Now you need to compare the “saddle” in the drawing and the saddle-measurement. Measure with a centimeter the line from (.)P through point 5 to (.)2 and on the back half from (.)C through (.)9 to (.) 3. Add up the measurement results. My measurement from the drawing is 3 cm less than the saddle test measurement, the missing centimeters need to be included in the drawing, otherwise the trousers will fit uncomfortably between the buttocks :(
To do this, draw a vertical line from (.)3 up and mark the missing difference of 3 cm on it. If the difference exceeds 5 cm, then I recommend building a vertical line 3/4 of the difference long or setting aside the entire difference, the pants are homemade and even extra “waste” for the good, there will be no pressure.
Draw a waist line through (..) 3p, B and 3c. I note that in (.) 3p and (.) 3p there must be a right angle.
Now connect (.) 3c to (.)9 and adjust the pattern line to (.)C if required. The upper part of the trousers is ready. For trousers with a low waist, you need to take an additional measurement - from the elastic at the waist, from the side down, measure the distance to the desired point where the low waist is supposed to be, usually up to 10 cm. On the drawing, from the constructed waist line, draw a line parallel to the line below by the desired amount.
From (.) B down, mark the height of the knee, mine is 54, and draw a horizontal line through this point. About it, to the right and to the left, set aside half the girth of the knee with an increase. I have 47/2, respectively 23.5 cm to the left and right.
Along the bottom line from the side seam to the left and right along half the circumference of the ankle, mine is 37/2, 18.5 cm each. From these points up the vertical is 3 cm. In the men's version, the width of the bottom can be equal to the width of the knee, you get straight trousers.
Finish the crotch seam of the front half. From (.) P down, through the point on the knee with (.) 3 on the bottom line. Adjust so that the line is smooth.
Draw the crotch line of the back half. From (.) C down through (.) on the knee to (.) 10 line of the bottom. Adjust so that the line is smooth. The length of the crotch seam of the back half will be approximately 1.3-1.8 cm longer; this difference will be adjusted during further assembly.
Mark seam allowances of 1-1.5 cm, along the waist line 1 cm is enough. Fold the fabric, matching the edges with the right sides inward. Cut out the pattern.
The leftovers will make a belt. The height of the belt pattern is equal to the height of the elastic + 0.5 + 1, multiply the resulting result by two. My elastic band is (2.5 + 1.5) x 2 = 8 cm wide, the length is equal to the waist line from the drawing multiplied by two, plus 1 cm allowance.
I’m ready, it’s more difficult to describe than to build, believe me. If you have questions, ask in the comments, I will try to clarify any unclear points. And in the next article I will show you how to sew pajama pants.
Sweet dreams, in warm pants, dear needlewomen!
In the book by R.I. Egorova “Learn to Sew” there is a detailed explanation of the construction of a trouser pattern. I won’t reinvent the wheel or rewrite anything, I’ll just post screenshots from the book. In my opinion, old sewing books are much better than modern sewing techniques. Also at the end of the article there is a very good video that clearly explains the entire technology of sewing trousers using ready-made patterns.
I also suggest downloading trouser patterns for two options. The first trouser pattern is designed for size 46, and the second for 38. Attention! European sizes. The size chart is shown below.
Pattern of trousers under the photo
Trouser pattern - option No. 2
For sewing you will need:
- Light trouser fabric
- Elastic belt for the belt (if you still prefer it).
- Pattern.
Pants pattern size 46 (size chart above)
How to sew trousers with a drawstring (elastic band)
The upper part of the trousers can be decorated in different ways: make a belt fastened with a button or sew in a zipper. But the simplest option is to sew trousers with an elastic band (or a drawstring). This option is suitable even for beginner craftswomen. Below are master classes with three ways to decorate a belt using an elastic band. And don’t pay attention to the fact that there is a lot of sarcastic ridicule around simple trousers with elastic. But at the same time, if you look into the wardrobes of lovely ladies, then, probably, everyone will have such pants, or at least every second one.
Fold the top with elastic and stitch it
I think that all the prejudices about such trousers are so stupid! I agree that they are not suitable for some situations, but in our lives there are no things that could be worn always and everywhere. In addition, the life of each of us is not continuous trips to theaters, operas and top fashion houses, where we should dress appropriately. We all have a favorite home, cottage and a bunch of other places where simple and comfortable trousers with an elastic waist would be appropriate. For example, when going on vacation, you won’t take an office suit with you, and a simple walk in the park with your baby will be more comfortable in light casual clothes.
It should be noted that what the item is made from plays an equally important role. It is recommended to sew drawstring trousers from silk satin, in which case you can get wonderful pajama-style trousers. And if you take into account the experience of other craftswomen, you can sew models from chiffon, cotton linen, staple, poplin, viscose and other fabrics using this pattern. Such a thing can be useful not only at home, there are even options for going out.
What to wear with pants with elastic (tie)
To further motivate you to sew these trousers, I want to show and tell you what you can combine them with.
The most common option is tops, T-shirts and T-shirts. The main rule is a harmonious combination of fabrics. So, if you decide to sew trousers from chiffon, then it is better to wear them in the future with a chiffon top.
Options made from denser fabrics go well with items made from light knitwear - tops, cardigans. Denim jackets and shirts will also be good company.
It is better to choose low-cut shoes - ballet flats, slippers, moccasins, sneakers, sandals and sandals.
02:06 Unknown 23 Comments
In this article we will analyze the technology of sewing classic women's trousers
Fabric selection
As a rule, classic trousers are made from: it can be cloth, tweed, cashmere, suit jacquard, etc., and the fabric must be dense enough to withstand frequent and strong ironing. I chose a thick suiting fabric in melange color, the fabric contains artificial fiber containing wool. Fabric consumption will be from 2m.
We will also need duplicating fabric (dublerin or non-woven fabric) - consumption from 30cm, lining for pockets - consumption from 30cm, a regular zipper 20cm long, matching and contrasting threads, as well as working tools.
Pattern
To sew trousers, we will use a pattern of classic trousers with a tight or moderate fit (you can see how to create a trouser pattern).
Cutting fabric
Be sure to check before opening. Let's fold our fabric in two layers, right side inward, and align along the edge. We place our paper trouser parts on the wrong side of the fabric as shown in the diagram, strictly observing the direction of the grain thread. We trace the patterns along the contour and add 1-1.5 cm to allowances along the waist lines, side and step cuts, and 2-4 cm along the bottom line. Along the line of the middle of the front half, we add allowances 3-5 cm wide and 20 cm long down from the waist line to the one-piece facing; under the facing, allowances along the bow line will be 1-1.5 cm. At the back half, along the middle line, the width of the allowance in the waist area is 2-3cm to adjust the pattern. We mark all control lines.
If the fabric has a pile, then lay the front and back halves in the same direction, as shown in the photo. Be sure to follow the direction of the grain thread, which should run parallel to the center line of the parts (arrow).
We cut out the parts and transfer the control lines to the second layer of fabric using copy stitches. Afterwards, be sure to mark all control lines on each part using spacer stitches or snares: the ironing line, the middle line, the hip line and the knee line.
And so, we cut out two parts for the back halves of the trousers
and two parts of the front halves.
Sewing
We sweep away the darts of the rear halves,
we grind them down,
iron the seams and press the darts towards the center line of the product.
Now let’s process the waist darts of the front halves: sweep,
we grind
and iron it to the middle line.
WTO
Now we will carry out a wet-heat treatment of each part, ironing and pulling certain areas of the parts to form a shape close to the human figure. Lay out the front and back halves on the table
and conduct the WTO according to this scheme.
In addition to giving shape, during wet-heat treatment, arrows are formed on each part,
and after the WTO, the front and rear halves look like this.
First fitting
After wet-heat treatment of the parts, we sweep the halves of the trousers along all sections and carry out the first fitting. During the fitting, we clarify the overall fit of the trousers, the ironing line (arrows), the waist line, the hem line, the position of the darts and pockets.
After fitting, we will separate our halves, finally carry out the WTO, check the equality of all parts and finally iron the arrows.
We duplicate the facing for the fastener on the wrong side of the product. If the fabric is not too dense, then the fold lines need to be reinforced with a dolikov.
Processing pockets
The model of our trousers has only two side pockets with a detachable side. If your trouser model has other pockets, for example, on the back halves you will have framed pockets or patch pockets, then it is at this stage of sewing trousers that all pockets must be processed.
To do this, we will mark the future pockets on the reverse side of the product.
Cutting out pocket details
and start processing. You can see the technology for processing side pockets with a cutting barrel. This is the pocket we got.
To prevent the pocket from becoming skewed during the process of sewing trousers, it is necessary to baste its allowances to the allowances of the product along the waist line and the side cut, and the line of entry into the pocket must be basted.
We overcast the allowances of all four halves along all sections, with the exception of the waist line. However, if the fabric frays too much, then the sections along the waist line also need to be overcast.
Second fitting
We again sweep the halves of the trousers along all the sections and carry out a second fitting. Now let's clarify the final waistline, hemline, overall fit of the trousers, and check for any defects.
Let's lay out the parts and continue sewing the product.
Clasp processing
We sweep and stitch the front halves along the middle seam under the fastener. Iron the allowances.
Now let's start processing the fastener. Our model has a classic zipper, which is located in the middle seam; see how to process such a fastener.
Connecting side and step cuts
To prevent stretching of the fabric at the waist area, we will sew a line of small stitches on the allowances of the waist line. You can strengthen the waistline with an adhesive filler.
On the wrong side of all four parts we glue the bottom line. If the fabric is too thick, then you only need to glue up to the hem line without allowances.
We fold the front and back halves along the side cuts, right side inward, strictly aligning the control lines, and cut off the cuts. We sweep the side cuts from the back half from the knee up and down.
Iron the basting.
From the side of the front half, using a pattern, draw a line along which the stitching line will run.
We sew the side sections from the side of the front half, starting from the waist line down, while in the area from the knee line down, we pull the fabric well.
Iron the seam on the edge on both sides, and then iron the seam allowances, slightly pulling the fabric.
Now let’s connect the back and front halves along step-by-step cuts, folding the parts right sides to each other and strictly aligning the control lines. We sweep the step cuts from the side of the back half from the knee line up and down.
And in the same way, we iron the basting, and from the side of the front half, using a pattern, we outline a stitching line. We sew the step sections from the side of the front half from the bottom up, pulling the fabric in the area from the knee line down. We iron the seams on both sides and, pulling, iron the allowances.
Seat Line Connection
From the wrong side we sweep the line of the middle of the back halves. Make it more convenient by putting one pant leg inside the other.
After basting, we will carry out the third fitting. During the fitting, we determine the width of the trousers at the waist. While wearing trousers, you need to sit down and check your seat height.
If the trousers are tight in the groin area or, conversely, are loose, then it is necessary to redo the crotch seams, releasing or taking in allowances.
We sew the seam of the seat, starting from the waist line, pulling the fabric,
we finish stitching on the bow line, and then go back and sew a line exactly along the first one, also pulling the fabric. At the end we put a large bartack.
We iron the seam on the edge on both sides, and iron the allowances without reaching the very bottom. The rest of the allowance remains on the edge. If the seam pulls, then it is necessary to tighten the allowances again.
Belt processing
We cut out the belt detail, observing the direction of the grain thread. The length of the belt is equal to the length of the waistline in the trousers, taking into account the width of the slope at the fastener, plus seam allowances. The width of the belt is 7-8 cm plus seam allowances; if the belt is cut out of two parts, then its width is 3.5-4 cm plus seam allowances. On the wrong side we duplicate the belt detail without allowances. We sew the bottom edge.
Fold the belt piece in half lengthwise, wrong side inward, iron the fold line and give the piece a semicircular shape, slightly ironing along the fold line.
We baste the belt to the waist line of the trousers along its raw cut, folding the parts with their right sides facing each other.
We sew the waistband, iron the seams, and press the allowances toward the waistband.
Now we will turn the belt over, fold it in half with the right side inward, and connect the side sections of the belt, while the allowances of the upper and lower sections should be folded to the wrong side of the belt. We sew the side sections of the belt.
We cut out the allowances in the corners and turn the belt right side out. Now we baste the belt from the wrong side of the product. You don’t have to fold the basted seam allowance inside the waistband, but baste it outwards, this will avoid excess thickness.
We sew again from the front side of the product, placing a stitch in the chip of the seam of attaching the belt to the front side.
Iron the seams. You can sew a button on the belt and make a loop for it, or make a hook, if desired.
Along the bottom line, fold the allowances to the wrong side and iron the fold line. The allowances can be secured with a hand-made goat seam or with adhesive web.
We carry out the final wet-heat treatment and our trousers are ready!
In this article you will not find a detailed description of how to sew trousers, but you will learn a lot of useful tips on how to sew women's or men's trousers with your own hands.
It is impossible to give complete technology and detailed processing of sewing trousers within one article. In other articles on the site you can find a detailed description of each operation separately, for example, how to hem trousers, process the waistband of trousers, process pockets, cuts, the bottom of trousers with cuffs, etc. That is why in this article we offer only a list of technological operations related to sewing trousers available on website.
All these recommendations can be used when sewing not only women's or men's trousers. They will also come in handy when sewing summer trousers with elastic for your child, children's trousers for a boy or a girl. Much can be used even when sewing jeans or denim skirts. In any case, these articles will help beginner tailors sew trousers correctly.
Trousers can be cut from 120-130cm fabric, 150cm wide. However, for the cut of loose-fitting trousers, this norm can double exactly.
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If you decide to sew trousers with your own hands, then the first thing you have to decide is to find a suitable pattern. In many magazines and online resources you can find ready-made patterns. However, before cutting expensive fabric, you must first check them, since almost all designs are designed for a standard figure. And many of them contain elements of outdated cut that are not used in modern clothing, since they were scanned from textbooks of the 50s.
Processing the upper cut with a stitched belt
The belt for men's trousers is made with belt loops and reinforced with bodice braid. However, for women's trousers, summer trousers with elastic or children's trousers, you can use this simplified method of processing a belt.
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Video on how to make buttonholes on a trouser waistband using a sewing machine in four steps.
The most difficult thing for a novice seamstress is to properly process the codpiece and it is especially difficult to sew in a zipper. Read this article, it contains many detailed photos that explain step by step how to perform this processing. Despite the fact that the article was written for a master class on sewing a skirt, it can also be used when sewing women's trousers.
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Processing belt loops
Processing belt loops for women's trousers.
Processing patch pockets
Pockets on the front halves of women's trousers are often made with welts (in a frame, with a leaf) or placed in the side seams. But sometimes, depending on the model of trousers, it is necessary to make not only back, but also front patch pockets.
Framed welt pocket and flap pocket
Hemming the bottom of men's trousers
Processing the hem of the bottom of men's trousers is most often the final sewing operation, but this is precisely what can be difficult to do with a neat and invisible stitch. Read the advice of an experienced studio technologist in the article Processing the hem of the bottom of trousers.
You can hem trousers or a skirt using a regular sewing machine using a special foot. This video shows how to do this.
Processing the hem of the bottom of trousers with a cuff
For children's trousers, especially boys' trousers, it is better to hem the hem with a cuff. Boys grow quickly and within a year you can rip out the cuffs and lengthen the trousers by 3-4cm without a trace of ironing.
See How to Double Cuff Pants.
Standard processing technology for men's trousers. In the article you will find a lot of useful information for beginners learning to sew trousers and skirts.
Processing technology for men's trousers.
Hidden zippers are rarely used on trousers, but if your model has one, this article will help you sew a zipper correctly.
See also.
Ways to sew a zipper into a skirt
How to sew different types of zippers. Simple and accessible technology for everyone.
How to simply and accurately sew in a zipper.
Wet-heat treatment of trousers
Wet-heat treatment is one of the components of high-quality tailoring of trousers. This especially applies to sewing men's and women's trousers from suiting and woolen fabrics.
To sew trousers beautifully and neatly with your own hands, you must constantly use a steam iron. Iron and straighten the seams in a timely manner, adjust the fabric if necessary, or, conversely, stretch it, etc.
This video clearly shows how to mark and make a dart for a skirt or trousers.
We all know that “the main thing is that the suit fits.” How to achieve the perfect fit of a suit? You can choose it for a long time and meticulously in the store, or you can bet on a win-win option - sew the suit yourself. To do this, you need to choose the right fabric, the right pattern and put in a little effort. Let's figure out how to sew the perfect trousers.
Before you start, you need to choose a model that is suitable for your body type. Modern fashion provides a wide selection of interesting models, but when sewing trousers, it is recommended to pay attention to classic models suitable for all body types. These are straight trousers of medium width with a crease, trousers with a low waist, with an extension from the hip or tight-fitting at the top, with a slight extension from the knee. If you are sewing trousers for the first time, choose models without pockets. Now let's move on to choosing fabric. Of course, first of all you should take into account the season during which you are going to wear the new thing. Wool is suitable for winter, linen or silk for hot summer. Corduroy trousers dictate a sporty style; tweed will be appropriate for formal events.
As you can see, sewing trousers is not an easy task. You need to pay special attention to detail and have skills in working with patterns and a sewing machine. Start with simple models, practice sewing individual elements - and one day you will sew your ideal trousers.
